Western Mongolia - Mongolia - page 438

Uvs Nuur is five times saltier than the ocean and devoid of edible fish. It has no outlet,
so a lot of the shoreline is quasi-wetland. This environment, plus the clouds of mosqui-
toes, make it tourist unfriendly.
Ornithologists have documented more than 200 bird species around Uvs Nuur Strictly
Protected Area (permit T3000) , including cranes, spoonbills, geese and eagles, as well as
gulls that fly thousands of kilometres from the southern coast of China to spend a brief
summer in Mongolia.
The small Argai Az Ger Camp (GPS: N 50°04.156', E 092°22.329'; with meals US$30) on the
southwestern side of the lake is rather neglected and sees few guests.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ULAANGOM TO ÖLGII: THE ROUGH ROUTE
This two-day jeep journey begins with a 40km tarmac road heading northwest out
of Ulaangom before turning left onto a jeep trail just past Türgen village. The jeep
trail heads up to Ulaan Davaa (Red Pass; elevation 1972m), notable for its enorm-
ous ovoo(shamanistic offering).
From the pass there are two routes. One heads due south and then southeast to
Khökh Nuur. The other leads west to lovely Üüreg Nuur.
From Üüreg Nuur, cargo trucks take a less-rugged (but longer) route (301km) via
Bohmörön village (where you can check out the 8th-century Turkic balbal,or an-
thropomorphic statue). Light vehicles (jeeps and vans) bypass Bohmörön and take
the short cut (254km) over the steep Bairam Davaa . Look out for several ancient
graves and balbals (GPS: N 50°00.484', E 091°02.932') on this route a few kilometres south
of Üüreg Nuur. The 8th-century balbalsrepresent either local heroes or, possibly,
enemies killed in battle. Another set of graves and balbals (GPS: N 50°00.220', E
091°02.713') is a further 550m south. The circular piles of stones in the area are kur-
gans(burial mounds).
On the south side of Bairam Davaa, the road passes more kurgansand standing
stones (thin, stone pillars used as grave markers). The most impressive, 7km north
of Khotgor, include two mounds (GPS: N 49°54.910', E 090°54.527') surrounded by con-
centric circles and radiating spokes.
Khotgor is a desolate coal-mining village but long-distance cyclists take note: this
is the only place to pick up supplies between Ulaangom and Ölgii. Most maps show
no road via Bairam Davaa but, rest assured, you can make it with a halfway decent
vehicle or bike (and the lungs of a yeti).
From Khotgor you could opt for a detour into the Yamaat Valley , which leads to
Türgen Uul. Otherwise, continue south for 60km to the Achit Nuur bridge. From
here it's another 75km to Ölgii. The road passes the surprisingly lush riverside