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with more than 3500 trees and shrubs; several Buddhist temples have also been
erected here in what now acts as a small monastery.
In 2006, Megjin was officially recognised as a Green Tara (Buddha of enlightened
activity) by the Mongolian Government and was given an enthronement ceremony
in Ulaanbaatar.
The trees she has planted are suffering from the harsh climate and lack of fresh
water, but Megjin's dedication is impressive nonetheless. You can take a tour of the
monastery grounds (admission T5000) , which includes five small temples, although
this is best done with a guide, as Megjin speaks no English.
If you need to stay here, Dörgön Zochid Budal (beds T10,000, meals T3000) is five
minutes' walk down the hill from the monastery, in the centre of the town, and has
beds, but no shower.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Chandmani
Chandmani, on the southeastern side of Khar Us Nuur National Park, is a renowned
centre for khöömii ( www.khoomei.com ) , or throat singing, along with Khovd and, more
famously, the republic of Tuva in Russia.
Thanks to some resident old masters, such as Tserendavaa ( 8840 6070) and Davaa-
jav, it is sometimes possible to arrange some informal training or an impromptu demon-
stration (around T30,000 per group). Apparently khöömii isn't as difficult to learn as you
might imagine, although to attain any degree of proficiency you will need at least a
week. If you're lucky, your visit may coincide with one of the small concerts that are
held in the purpose-built khöömii ordon (palace), although your best chance of this is
during the third week of July when a khöömii competition is planned as part of a festiv-
al to celebrate traditional Mongolian arts (the inaugural festival was held in 2011).
Also in town you'll find the women's cooperative, Bisness Enkhbator Töv , which
produces a small selection of garments and hats made from camel and yak wool.
Places to stay are thin on the ground. We found a room at Zochid Buudal ( 8918
9896; per person T10,000) , which simply means 'hotel'. It has a clean-enough four-bed
dorm with a shared outhouse and an attached restaurant which can rustle up a decent
meal (T3000). You may be able to arrange a homestay for T5000 to T10,000 per night
with one of the khöömii masters.
Numerous shared jeeps/taxis leave daily from Chandmani to Khovd (T10,000 per per-
son, five hours, 150km).
 
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