Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
I trapped Sari Köz 22 years ago in the Sairyn Mountains. Some people steal
chicks from an eagle's nest but these birds lack killer instincts and never become
good hunters. I think it is better to lure and trap a wild adult who has already learnt
to hunt, using a previously caught eagle and some meat. Sari Köz, like all eagles
used in hunting, is a bürkit(female). Bürkitsare best as they are bigger, heavier
and far more aggressive than the males (sarsha).
Training an Eagle
To train a bürkittakes patience. At first she will flap wildly and try to bite whoever
approaches. To 'break' her we rig a perch that spins and throws her off balance and
causes her to fall. After two or three days she is hungry, exhausted and calm
enough to take food from your hand. Eventually she will trust you and learn to
come to you to be fed. This is the first step in training a bürkit.
When an eagle is first taken outside she is kept tethered to her tugir(pole) and
taught to chase small animal skins or lures called shirgas, until the day comes
when you must untie the tether and trust that she does not fly away.
The Hunt
After much practise, the bürkitis ready to go on a hunt. It is best to go with anoth-
er, experienced eagle so that she can learn from it. When a fox or marmot is spot-
ted, the tomaga(hood) is removed and, if trained correctly and of a strong spirit,
she will chase and capture it. If she has been successful in her hunt, she is rewar-
ded with fresh meat from the kill.
Sleeping
To camp, walk east of the square to Khovd Gol and then head southeast, away from the
market and ger suburbs.
Traveller's Guest House
GUEST GER$
( 9942 4505, 9942 9696;
nazkana@fastmail.fm
; per person T10,000; )
This small, no-
frills, family-run operation is friendly and good value. The owner, Nazgul, who also
works for Kazakh Tour, speaks good English and has extensive knowledge about the
whole aimag. She'll rent you a mountain bike (T10,000 per day), put on a load of your
laundry (T10,000) and pick you up or drop you off at the airport (T5000). Better yet, her
gers, which are in the yard of her family home, and the shared shower are spotless, al-
though the shared toilets are long-drop, pit-toilet jobs. Wi-fi extends to all the gers (when
it's working). No restaurant.
