Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Baga Gazryn Chuluu
This granite-rock formation (admission T3000) in the middle of the dusty plains sheltered
Zanabazar during conflicts between the Khalkh and Oirat Mongols. Later it was home to
two 19th-century monks who left rock drawings in the area. Locals who sometimes
make pilgrimages here worship the rocks. Naturally, there is a legend that Chinggis
Khaan grazed his horses here.
The Delgeriin Choiriin Khiid (GPS: N 46°08.691', E 106°09.142') , one of the many monas-
teries destroyed in the purges of the 1930s, is in the process of being rebuilt and se-
questered. In a nearby ger is Luvsan Darjaa, a lama said to be the reincarnation of the
famous Mongolian scholar Zava Damdin. Five hundred monks once called this monas-
tery home. Now just 10 live here, including one young monk who speaks excellent Eng-
lish and who is always happy to show foreign visitors around. There are a few guest gers
where pilgrims can stay for free, but there are no tourist facilities here.
Five kilometres away, the highest peak in the area, Baga Gazryn Uul (1768m), will
take about an hour to climb. The fresh-water springs (if you can find them) and trees in
the region make it a great spot to camp, and there are plenty of rocky hills topped by
ovoos (shamanistic offerings to the gods) to explore. One unusual sight is the half-hidden
stone ruins of the 200-year-old monastery, Tsorjiin Khureenii Khiid (GPS: N 46°12.064', E
106°02.103') . Concealed amongst the rocks, and shaded by trees, some of the rooms at the
back of the now roofless complex still have traces of blue paint on their crumbling walls.
Nearby, Usan Bolortiin Agui (GPS: N 46°12.686', E 106°01.717') is a cave which has a
funnel-like opening through which you can squeeze into a ger-sized cavern below.
There's also a tiny fresh-water spring (GPS: N 46°12.249', E 106°01.135') near here, covered
over with a stone. Lift the stone off the opening and use the long-handled spoon that loc-
als have placed here to scoop up the spring water.
The Bayan Bulag ger camp ( 9825 0010; GPS: N 46°13.827', E 106°04.192'; with/without
meals US$38/18) is a short walk from the ruins of Tsorjiin Khureenii Khiid and has good
food and hot showers. Alternatively, herdsmen have family gers just a few hundred
metres from here where you can grab a cheap lunch (T4000 to T5000) or stay in a simple
guest ger (around T10,000 per person).
Baga Gazryn Chuluu is about 60km north by northwest of Mandalgov, and about
21km east of Süm Khökh Burd.
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