Eastern Mongolia - Mongolia - page 333

Shared jeeps (T15,000, four hours) connect Dariganga with Baruun-Urt on Wednesday,
Friday and Sunday (provided there's enough demand). A postal truck runs every
Thursday from Baruun-Urt at 8am but you should reserve a ticket the day before.
One or two jeeps and even motorbikes may be available for charter.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Shiliin Bogd Uul
At 1778m, Shiliin Bogd Uul (GPS: N 45°28.509', E 114°35.909') , about 70km east of
Dariganga, is the highest peak in Sükhbaatar aimag. The extinct volcano is sacred to
many Mongolians, and it used to be the case of 'no girls allowed' when it came to climb-
ing the mountain, but it seems that the local divine powers have a more egalitarian mind-
set these days; several local women climbed the mountain when we visited. A pungent
odour surrounds the large main ovoo at the top, topped with a horsehair pennant and
covered in offerings of food, milk and coins, and there's such a fantastic view over the
green hills from the top that you can watch the rain sweep in from the nearby Chinese
border, 3km to the south.
A jeep can drive about halfway up the mountain, and then it's a short, blustery walk to
the top. After making your offerings, you can do a clockwise walk around the crater that
leads you back to the car park. If you are camping, Shiliin Bogd offers one of the greatest
sunrises in a country full of great sunrises.
On the road between Dariganga and Shiliin Bogd, 8km past Ganga Nuur, look out for
the seated figure of Toroi-Bandi (GPS: N 45°17.305', E 114°04.465') , the Robin Hood of Mon-
golia, who stole horses from the local Manchurian rulers, then eluded them by hiding
near Shiliin Bogd Uul. The statue, dedicated in 1999, pointedly faces China.
The only two roads to Shiliin Bogd start from Erdenetsagaan (70km) and Dariganga
(70km). If you are coming from the Buir Nuur/Khalkh Gol area, once you've passed
Tamsagbulag, a sometimes muddy shortcut road cuts across the countryside to the main
road leading to the Chinese border near Erdenetsagaan. It runs close to the border of the
Eastern Mongolia Nature Reserve, home of the endangered gazelle, and runs through the
large oil field (also, alarmingly, located near said nature reserve).
Not far from the Chinese border, a minor road leads to the only accommodation option
for miles around: Wood House ( [phone]; GPS: N 45°56.177', E 115°46.511'; s/d/
ste T40,000/50,000/60,000) , a hunting lodge with wood-panelled en-suite rooms; meals
available only by advance booking. As it is frequented entirely by a Chinese clientele,
the Mongolian staff may be flummoxed by your arrival.