Eastern Mongolia - Mongolia - page 303

DIY EASTERN MONGOLIA
For independent travellers, eastern Mongolia is both a godsend and a logistical
nightmare. You're certainly not likely to be tripping over ger-loads of Gobi-lovers
here, but making your solitary way across this region requires a considerable
amount of patience, effort and forward planning.
You can't just wing it, as the region's biggest highlights lie in the border area and
even non-local Mongolians require permission to travel here. You must have a set
itinerary if you wish to travel beyond the major cities, and you must obtain permis-
sion in advance from the Border Protection Office in Ulaanbaatar ( Click here ) .
Make the itinerary as detailed as possible and specify the order in which you wish
to visit the proposed locations. Easy enough? On the road, you will have to register
at police stations or military bases in Batshireet, Dadal, Choibalsan, Khalkh Gol
and other areas. As rules change from time to time, find out in Ulaanbaatar exactly
where you have to register - and register you must, since if you fail to register at
one of your set itinerary points, when you then try to register at your next destina-
tion, the police could, in theory, send you back to your previous destination to re-
gister before you can proceed further. If you don't speak Mongolian, registering can
be tricky, as can renting a horse and anything else that requires language skills.
Always carry your passport, as there are several military checkpoints, particu-
larly in the easternmost part of the region, and a photocopy just won't do.
All the highlights require you to have your own wheels…or hooves. It's possible to
rent jeeps with drivers in several towns, though it's easiest in Ulaanbaatar. As
northern Khentii tends to suffer from muddy roads bad enough to sink a jeep, the
best way to explore the region is on horseback; both Batshireet and Dadal are good
places to launch an expedition. A GPS is essential for finding more remote sites.
Unless you're supremely confident of your equestrian abilities and have a GPS, it's
not advisable to go off without a guide. That's about it. Not put off yet? Then you
qualify for our 'most intrepid traveller' award.
KHENTII
POP 67,500 / AREA 80,300 SQ KM
Khentii is Chinggis Khaan territory. The great man grew up here, established his empire
on its grasslands and, from Delgerkhaan, launched his mighty horde at the heart of Asia.
Few physical traces remain of the nomad empire, but armed with a copy of The Secret
History of the Mongols and a GPS unit you could launch your own expedition to scour
the land for the 50 or so historical sites relating to Chinggis Khaan's life.