Northern Mongolia - Mongolia - page 295

stupa built in 1890 by local hero Khainzan Gelenkhuu (1870-1937), who leapt off a
200m cliff with a set of sheepskin wings and flew as if he were some kind of Icarus-in-
carnate. From the pass it's an easy 19km to Jargalant.
Jargalant is a pretty town near the confluence of the Ider and Khonjil Gols. The sum
is perhaps most famous for being the homeland of a herder named Öndöör Gongor (Tall
Gongor, 1879-1931), who was 2.57m tall. The one attraction in town is Jargalantiin
Dugan (also called Dashbijeliin Süm), an old, boarded-up monastery that dates back to
1890.
The best place to stay in Jargalant is the Jargal Jiguur ( 11-450 093; ad-
[e-mail] ; GPS: N 48°33.615', E 99°22.061'; per person US$20, meals US$8, shower US$2) ,
a ger camp 3km south of town. The highlight of the camp is a mineral spring pool (you
can see the natural pool across the river; just follow the pipes).
A cheaper option is Wild Nature Guest Ger ( 9550 5617; GPS: N 48°33.989', E
99°21.984'; per ger T20,000, shower US$3) , between Jargal Jiguur and the town. The guest
ger is run by a friendly local lady named Batchimeg; she may bring you delicious fresh
cream and berries in the morning.
From Jargalant it's another 80km to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur . About 6km south of
town are several burial mounds , including one with a tree growing from it. Some 26km
south of Jargalant there is a small ger hotel and, on the hill behind it, a Buddhist temple
constructed in 2001 to replace an older temple on the same spot. About 46km from Jar-
galant is Orokhiin Davaa (GPS: N 48°17.484', E 99°23.130') , the final pass on the way to
Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur. There is a delicious cold water spring by the road on the north
side of the pass.
VISITING THE TSAATAN
A visit to the Tsaatan community of reindeer herders is a fascinating experience.
It's a rare chance to learn about a unique traditional way of life and a highlight of
any trip to northern Mongolia ( Click here ) . You can stay with the community and
have the opportunity to volunteer for activities such as reindeer milking and churn-
ing milk to be made into cheese. You'll come away with a great appreciation for the
remoteness and self-sufficiency of this tiny community.
However, irresponsible tourism, research and evangelical activities have put the
Tsaatan culture and their reindeer at risk, and a trip must be approached with
sensitivity. If you are planning a trip to the taiga, the Tsaatan prefer it if you organ-
ise it via the Tsaatan Community & Visitors Center ( Click here ) . The concept of the
TCVC began in the mid-2000s after years of unregulated tourism to the Tsaatan