Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE REINDEER HERDERS
Not far from Khövsgöl Nuur live the Tsaatan (literally 'Reindeer People'). Their en-
tire existence is based on their herds of reindeer, which provide milk for making
cheese, antlers for carving and medicine, transport (the males can carry up to
90kg of weight) and, very occasionally, meat.
The Tsaatan are part of the Tuvan ethnic group, which inhabits the Tuvan Repub-
lic of Russia, and they speak both Tuvan and Mongolian. There are only about 400
to 500 Tsaatan in total (around 250 live in taiga), spread over 100,000 sq km of
northern Mongolian taiga landscape. They are truly nomadic, often moving their
small encampments (ail)in search of the special types of grass and lichen loved by
the reindeer (of which there are less than 1000). The Tsaatan do not use gers, but
prefer orts, similar to Native American tepees, traditionally made from birch bark
but now from store-bought canvas. Shamanism plays an important part in
Tsaatan; the shaman also acts as a healer, providing traditional remedies for ail-
ments.
When the president of Mongolia visited the Tsaatan in winter of 2012, he decreed
that elders and families with many children will receive a stipend from the govern-
ment. Before communism and forced collectivisation the Tsaatan were completely
self-sufficient, with enough reindeer per family to feed themselves. These days, in
autumn, the Tsaatan gather berries, pine nuts and wild potato, and fish and hunt
when possible as further means of subsistence. January to March is the hungriest
time of all.
For information on visiting the Tsaatan,
Click here
.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Darkhad Depression
About 50km west of Khövsgöl Nuur, behind a wall of mountains, sits a harsh, mystical
landscape of prairie, forest and 300-odd lakes scattered over a wide plain called the
Darkhad Depression. The depression is roughly the same size as Khövsgöl Nuur and was
also originally formed as a glacial lake.
The difficulty in reaching the region ensures the unique Tsaatan people, who are
among the inhabitants of the valleys, are still able to continue their traditional lifestyle.
The area is also one of Mongolia's strongest centres of shamanism - the genuine kind,
not the let's-pose-for-the-tourists kind.
This is one of the best-watered regions in Mongolia and the lakes are full of white carp
and trout. Salmon and huge taimen can also be found here.
