Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
north of Khatgal is easier to drive, and there's a turnoff for the Bulnai hot springs
halfway along.
In the rainy season, the best way to Chandman-Öndör is by horse; the trek from Khat-
gal takes four to five days. The route is spectacular, but marred by swarms of flies.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Around Chandman-Öndör
Chandman-Öndör is the jumping-off point for several sites, including the
Bulnai hot
springs
(per person T15,000)
, about 60km northwest of town. This Soviet-era resort has
wood cabins over the springs, some of which reach 48°C. Besides the
Bulnai Tour Camp
(per person T25,000)
near the springs with its log cabins, there's a new ger camp right next
to the springs with hot showers; MS Guesthouse in Khatgal (
Click here
)
arranges trips
here.
Heading east of Chandman-Öndör, the road follows the Arig Gol. After 41km you'll
pass a row of 13
shamanic tepees
(GPS: N 50°30.727', E 101°17.478')
made from sticks.
These represent the 12 years according to the Asian calendar, plus one central
ovoo
.
After another 18km you'll reach the town of
Tsagaan-Uur
, with basic shops and
guanz
.
The bridge east of town was present at the time of writing but is occasionally washed
away. The road to Tsagaan-Uur is notoriously rough and can take up to six hours from
Chandman-Öndör.
Around 38km past Tsagaan-Uur (and 97km past Chandman-Öndör) is the
Dayan
Derkh Monastery
(GPS: N 50°26.804', E 101°53.328')
, set on a beautiful bend of the Uur Gol.
The log-cabin temple, rebuilt in 2006 over the remains of an older monastery, is home to
a half-dozen lamas. Another 15km east of the temple is the
Dayan Derkhiin Agui
, a cave
considered holy by local Buddhists and shamanists. According to legend, the monastery
was founded after the famed shaman Dayan Derkh turned to stone rather than be cap-
tured by Chinggis Khaan, whose wife the shaman had stolen. In winter you could reach
the cave by vehicle, in summer the only way is by horse (a six-hour return journey). It is
only possible to get halfway to the monastery by vehicle; the rest has to be by horse. Her-
ders in the area may be able to rent you a horse for T10,000. In theory you need a border
permit for Tsagaan-Uur and Dayan Derkhiin Agui.
About 26km downstream from the monastery is the confluence of the Eg and Uur
Gols. Head west at the Eg and after about 35km you'll reach the town of
Erdenebulgan
,
from where it's possible to double back to Mörön. The road from Dayan Derkh Monas-
tery to Erdenebulgan has been made easier by the building of bridges across the two river
crossings, but we can't vouch for their state of repair.
