Northern Mongolia - Mongolia - page 277

Khatgal
Bisected by a brand-new paved road, cheerful Khatgal is a scattering of colourful roofs,
dirt alleyways and wooden houses, spread out beneath the foothills and along the narrow
arm of Khövsgöl Nuur that funnels into the Egiin Gol. The southern gateway to the lake,
Khatgal is the largest town in the area, with some of the best budget accommodation in
Mongolia. It is a good launchpad for multiday adventures in the area as well as hiking,
biking, kayaking and horse riding.
For a good view of the lake, just climb the hill immediately north of Nature's Door
camp ( Click here ) . You can also check out the Mogoi Mod (Snake Tree; GPS: N 50°27.080', E
100°07.274') , 4km from town, past the defunct airport, towards Jankhai Davaa (Jankhai
Pass). This tree, which curves into a unique spiral, is honoured with hadak (ritual
scarves).
Western Shore
From Khatgal, a good, packed-gravel road first heads southwest before swinging north-
east across several dry riverbeds and over the pass, Jankhai Davaa , 17km from Khatgal,
where you'll come across a few minor ovoos (GPS: N 50°34.023', E 100°07.797') and a
cluster of reindeer herders selling handicrafts. These few Tsaatan, sometimes accompan-
ied by a so-called shamaness, have been lured down to the lake by the promise of tourist
tögrög and their token reindeer are adversely affected by the lowland climate.
Over the pass, the road, lined with ger camps, continues past the gorgeous headlands
of Jankhai and the Toilogt eco-camp ( Click here ) to a military post (you're supposed to
get permission to travel up the west side of the lake). The road then deteriorates into a
swampy mess. It's only really possible to travel here by vehicle when the ground freezes,
though you can carry on up the coast on horseback.
About 30km north of Toilogt is Khar Us (GPS: N 50°56.132', E 100°14.835') , a series of
springs surrounded by meadows of beautiful wildflowers. In June locals flock here to eat
the bailius fish for its medicinal properties (these fish are smoked and served with wild
green onions, or sometimes boiled).
Almost exactly halfway up the western shore lies Jiglegiin Am (GPS: N 51°00.406', E
100°16.003') , from where a decent westbound road runs to Renchinlkhumbe, on the way
to Tsagaannuur.