Northern Mongolia - Mongolia - page 250

Getting Around
Darkhan is spread out, so you will probably have to take a taxi to get between the new
and old towns.
OPEN FOR BUSINESS?
Opening times (for museums, monasteries etc) are never exact. Places open and
close at the whim of the manager (or keeper of the keys) so be flexible when visit-
ing these sites of interest.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Amarbayasgalant Khiid
Far in the wilds of Selenge aimag, this monastery ( www.amarbayasgalant.org ; GPS: N
49°28.672', E 105°05.121') is considered to be one of the top three Buddhist institu-
tions in Mongolia (along with Erdene Zuu in Kharkhorin and Gandan in Ulaanbaatar)
and the country's most attractive and intact architectural complex. It is well worth visit-
ing on the way to/from Khövsgöl Nuur, or other areas in northern or western Mongolia.
As it's about six hours away from Ulaanbaatar on mostly decent roads, it can also be
done as an overnight trip from the capital, either solo or with the aid of one of several
tour companies.
Amarbayasgalant Khiid was built between 1727 and 1737 by the Manchu emperor
Yongzheng, and dedicated to the great Mongolian Buddhist and sculptor Zanabazar
( Click here ) , whose mummified body was moved here in 1779. It is in the Manchu style,
down to the inscriptions, symmetrical layout, imperial colour scheme and roof guardians
on every roof corner.
In spite of extensive restoration by UNESCO, there's a sense of genteel decay and
gradual takeover by nature, from the faded wooden beams, thickly coated in bird drop-
pings, and riotous greenery blocking some entrances, to the scurrying marmots and caw-
ing jackdaws that seem to rule the place.
The monastery was largely spared during the 1937 purge, possibly because of sym-
pathetic and procrastinating local military commanders. These days about 30 monks live
in the monastery, compared with more than 2000 in 1936.