Central Mongolia - Mongolia - page 213

It's not possible to camp at the monastery, but there are a couple of family-run ger
camps at the bottom, by the entrance to the national park. Expect to pay around T20,000
per person including meals. Don't expect showers.
The monastery is around 60km from Kharkhorin. Just follow the Orkhon Gol southw-
est for around 50km and turn north, up a side valley. This brings you to the ger camps
and the trailhead up the eastern side of the mountain. Note that if you are coming from
Orkhon Khürkhree, you will arrive at the western slope of the mountain and will end up
taking a different trail to the top. From this side you'll also find basic ger camps and
herdsmen offering horse rides to the monastery.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
KUL-TEGINII MONUMENT
When Chinggis Khaan decided to move his capital to Karakorum, he was well
aware that the region had already been the capital of successive nomad empires.
About 20km northeast of Khar Balgas lies the remainder of yet another of these,
the Turkic khaganate(pre-Mongol empire). All that's left of the khaganateis the
3m-high inscribed monument of Kul-Tegin (AD 684-731), the khagan(ruler) of the
ancient empire.
The monument (GPS: N 47°33.837', E 102°49.931') was raised in 732 and is inscribed in
Runic and Chinese script. You can see a copy of the stele in the entrance of the Na-
tional Museum of Mongolia in Ulaanbaatar.
Just over 1km away is another monument to Bilge Khagan (683-734), older broth-
er of Kul-Tegin. Ten years after the death of Bilge, the Turkic khaganatewas over-
run by the Uighurs.
A Turkish-funded archaeological expedition has built a museum at the site. In
fact, the outdoor monuments are replicas and the originals have been moved in-
side the museum. If the museum is locked, the watchman at the ger next door
should be able to let you inside.
The museum and monuments are 45km north of Kharkhorin, on a paved road.
About 3km before the museum (if coming from Kharkhorin) is Tsaidam Ger Camp (
9923 6888; per person US$10) , which has comfortable gers and hot showers.
Orkhon Khürkhree
After a strong rain the magnificent seasonal Orkhon Khürkhree (Ulaan Tsutgalan,; GPS: N
46°47.234', E 101°57.694') , is one of the best sights in central Mongolia. About 250m down-
stream from the waterfall you can climb down to the bottom of the gorge ; it's 22m deep
and dotted with pine trees.