Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE BIG ASHTRAY
Ulaanbaatar means 'Red Hero'. However, in winter a more apropos name would be
'Kharbaatar', the 'Black Hero', as the city is often cloaked in a thick cloud of noxious
smoke that can linger for days until a strong wind blows it away.
By 2011 the air pollution had reached such epic levels that the World Health Or-
ganization (WHO) rated Ulaanbaatar the world's second most polluted city, after
Ahvaz in western Iran.
But unlike Ahvaz, which is polluted year-round, Ulaanbaatar's pollution is packed
into the winter months, from November to March, when families in the ger districts
furiously burn coal to fend off the extreme cold. Around 92% of the smoke in UB
comes from stoves in the ger districts.
In the worst-affected areas of the city, the levels of PM2.5 (particulate matter
that is 2.5 micrometres or less) can exceed an appalling 2500. According to WHO,
300 or above is considered 'hazardous'. Levels in the city centre aren't quite so
horrific but can still regularly exceed 1000 in winter.
To help cut pollution the government has sold around 120,000 subsidised
Turkish-built stoves to families in ger areas. The stoves are more fuel-efficient and
cleaner burning than the traditional Mongolian stove, however they still emit some
smoke so the project is considered just a temporary fix.
The longer-term solution is to bring central heat and apartments to the gers
areas. But with a short building season and 180,000 families needing modern
housing, the project could be years, if not decades, in the making.
To see the latest PM2.5 measurements in Ulaanbaatar, search for the 'UB Air Qu-
ality Info' page on Facebook.
South of Chinggis Khaan Square
Choijin Lama Temple Museum
MUSEUM
( 11-324 788; off Jamyn Gunii Gudamj; adult/student/child T5000/2500/500, audio guide
T5000; 9am-7.30pm daily Jun-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-May)
This temple museum is a
hidden gem of architecture and history, smack in the middle of downtown Ulaanbaatar. It
was the home of Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama ('Choijin' is an honorary title given to
some monks), the state oracle and brother of the Bogd Khan. Construction of the monas-
tery commenced in 1904 and was completed four years later. It was closed in 1938 and
probably would have been demolished had it not been saved in 1942 to serve as a mu-
