Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Guo Moruo's Residence
郭末若故居 , guōmòruò gǔjū • Qianhai Xijie (second left from exit B of Beihai North station) • Tues-Sun
9am-4.30pm • 20 • 010 83225392 • Beihai North subway (line 6)
Just west of Qianhai Lake's Lotus Lane, though a little tricky to access, you'll find GuoMor-
uo's Residence . Guo (1892-1978) was a revered writer in his day, though now he's con-
sidered a little stuffy. His elegantly furnished and spacious house is worth a peek around -
less for the exhibits of dusty books and bric-a-brac than for an insight into how snug court-
yard houses could be.
Prince Gong's Palace and around
恭王府 , gōngwáng fǔ • Qianhai Xijie • Daily: March-Nov 7.30am-4.30pm; Dec-Feb 8am-4pm • 40 •
010 66186628 • Beihai North subway (line 6); turn left up Sanzuoqiao Hutong from exit B, then left at the
crossroads
The charming Prince Gong's Palace was once the residence of Prince Gong, the brother of
Emperor Xianfeng and father of the last Qing emperor, Pu Yi. Its many courtyards, joined by
covered walkways, have been restored to something like their former elegance. In the very
centre is the Yin'an Dian, a hall where the most important ceremonies and rites were held;
also look out for the sumptuously painted ceiling of Xi Jin Zhai, used as a studio by Prince
Gong, then as a bedroom by He Shen. The northern boundary of the courtyard area is marked
by a 151m-long wall; sneak around this and you'll be on the southern cusp of a gorgeous
garden area, set around an attractive lake. One hall here was once used for opera perform-
ances, though these had sadly been discontinued at the time of writing; it's worth asking to
see if they've resumed.
There are plenty of other old palaces in the area, for this was once something of an imperial
pleasure ground, and home to a number of high officials and distinguished eunuchs. Head
north up Liuyin Jie and you pass the former Palace of Tao Beile , now a school, after about
200m. It's one of a number of converted buildings in the area, some of which are identified
by plaques.
Mei Lanfang Museum
梅兰芳博物馆 , méilánfāng bówùguǎn • Huguosi Jie, off Deshengmennei Dajie • Tues-Sun 9am-4pm • 10 •
010 66183598 • Ping'anli (lines 4 & 6) or Beihai North subway (line 6)
Some 600m west of Prince Gong's Palace, the small Mei Lanfang Museum was once the
home of the greatest opera singer of the twentieth century, Mei Lanfang, whose tragic life
was the basis for Chen Kaige's opulent movie Farewell My Concubine . It's a pretty place,
featuring plenty of pictures of Mei Lanfang famously dressed as a woman, playing female
roles.
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