Travel Reference
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dances). Yasukuni-jinja ( 3261-8326; www.yasukuni.or.jp ; 3-1-1 Kudan-kita, Chiyoda-ku; Hanzō-
mon Line to Kudanshita, exit 1) celebrates O-bon with 30,000 paper lanterns during the Mit-
ama Matsuri ( ; Lantern Festival).
Eating
11 Harajuku Gyōza Rō $
GYŌZA
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Gyōza (dumplings) are the only thing on the menu, but there are no complaints
from the regulars queuing for their fix. Have them sui (boiled) or yaki (pan-fried),
with or without niniku (garlic) or nira (chives) - they're delicious. Expect to wait
on weekends. ( 6-4-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 6 gyōza ¥290;
11.30am-4.30am;
JR Yamanote
Line to Harajuku, Omote-sandō exit;
)
12 Maisen $
TONKATSU
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You could order something else, but almost everyone is here for the tonkatsu
(deep-fried pork cutlets). Price is determined by grade of meat: you can splurge on
the prized kurobuta (black pig), but even the cheapest is melt-in-your-mouth di-
vine. The restaurant is in an old public bathhouse. A takeaway window serves deli-
cious tonkatsu sando (sandwiches). ( http://mai-sen.com ; 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku;
lunch/dinner from ¥995/1680;
11am-10pm;
Ginza Line to Omote-sandō, exit A2;
)
13 246 Common $
STREET FOOD
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246 Common looks like a fairground plunked into a vacant lot in Aoyama. A ragtag
collection of vendors - housed in freight containers, shacks, campers and tents -
offer up treats such as baked goods, noodles, takoyaki (octopus dumplings) and
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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