Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Before supplementing nutrients, I would want to look at the soil and plants to see if
their condition supports the data from the soil test. The soil is probably going to be com-
pacted, lacking in air and devoid of life. Plants are probably not optimally healthy. Brix
will be low. If this is all true, bringing in 40 pounds of calcitic lime and 20 pounds of
gypsum will start moving the calcium to magnesium ratio up. These should be split into
two to four applications. The gypsum helps bring air into the soil.
Some form of chemical nitrogen could be applied in the meantime at two pounds, or li-
quid fish if you want to stay organic. Either of these should be mixed with 1 cup of
molasses or ½ cup of sugar. The phosphorus to potassium ratio is 1:4 when it should be
1:1, which is the same as saying the phosphate to potash ratio should be 2:1. I would add
5-10 pounds of soft rock phosphate and perhaps 2 pounds of MAP 11-52-0. Liquid calci-
um and molasses could be tried to bring up calcium and phosphorus.
None of these nutrients are going to be very effective, however, if the health and di-
versity of the soil food web isn't improved. That means applying sufficient water, organic
matter, and perhaps microbial inoculants and biostimulants. All of these should help bring
up the ERGS. I've given examples here of the fertilizers I most commonly use. If you
work with a good soil lab, you don't need to get a diploma to figure out which fertilizers
to use because the lab will guide you. I don't often recommend chemicals, but when the
soil is this far gone, they can vastly reduce the time needed to make things right and get
some reasonably healthy plants growing.
Case Study 2 — Heavy Clay
Here's an example of a heavy clay soil.
