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wonderful stained glass and a Renaissance-style font in black marble. A marble bust com-
memorates Brassey, perhaps the greatest railway contractor of all time. There is also a shrine
to St Werburgh, a Mercian princess with miraculous healing powers. In 2002 the cathedral
launched Chester Pilgrim Ale made by JW Lees in Manchester. The cathedral is the most
popular free-entry destination in the UK.
The market dates from 1139. Katie's Tea Rooms are Britain's largest in one of the oldest
buildings, even older than the market. At the time of the Conquest, brewers of poor ale was
fined four shillings or ducked in the town pond. At noon on summer Tuesdays to Saturdays
there is a town crier at High Cross, where there was bear baiting, stocks, a whipping post and
sedan chairs on hire at various times.
Following the Conquest, Hugh Lupus d'Avranches, the cruel nephew of William the Con-
queror, was made 1st Earl of Chester and built the first Chester weir to power the Dee mills.
Chester Castle of 1069 was built on a Saxon fort site but only the gatehouse remains, the
Agricola Tower, dating from the 13th century, now with canal documents. The current build-
ing is in Greek Revival style, by Thomas Harrison, and contains the Cheshire Military Mu-
seum, with 300 years of Cheshire regiments plus Ypres trenches and the Victoria Cross of
Todger Jones, who captured 120 Germans single handed.
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