Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A railway disaster that killed seven people was caused by someone deliberately stopping
his car on a level crossing in the path of a high speed train at Ufton Nervet in 2004. On the
next corner, at Lower Padworth, the canal, railway and A4 all come together for the first time.
Had Brunel started his railway even five years sooner it might be that all our railways would
now be broad gauge but standard gauge was already too well established elsewhere and he
had to concede defeat. One weekend in 1847 the entire line from Paddington to Penzance was
changed from broad to standard gauge with trains running on the new gauge on the Monday
morning. It would be interesting to see how long Brunel would have taken to electrify the
West Coast Main Line.
By Padworth Lock, the canalman's cottage has been converted into a Kennet & Avon
Canal Trust visitor centre with a historical and wildlife walking trail.
In 1894, plans were announced to flood the valley between Aldermaston and Newbury as a
reservoir for London. The plan was shelved after widespread opposition. Thames Water have
been proposing more recently a site across the line of the Wilts & Berks Canal near Abing-
don.
At the end of this straight the canal rejoins the river. To the left is Aldermaston, home of the
Surridge cricket bat. On the other side of it is the Atomic Weapons Establishment, scene of
the Ban the Bomb marches in the 1950s. Between the village and research centre, Blue Circle
built the new headquarters for their cement company, then had to vacate them as radioactive
water seeped beneath them and towards the village. The village still uses the old tradition of a
candle auction of church lands every three years, where bids are placed by sticking pins into
a candle which then burns down, the rents going to charity.
On the next river section a low swing bridge has been replaced by the high-level Wickham
Knights footbridge on interesting brick abutments. Near here was an angling notice banning
just about every form of pleasure on the navigation, the word 'boats' subsequently being
painted out from the banned list.
Woolhampton has a recent swing bridge although its fast current makes it a difficult area
for powered craft. The Rowbarge Inn has been much enlarged since the 1970s when the land-
lord was Larry Naismith, known for his roles in Ealing Comedies although the picture he
displayed in the bar was a rather severe portrait of himself in German military uniform from
his leading role in
Where Eagles Dare
.
The station was renamed as Midgham to avoid confusion for passengers who really wanted
to go to Wolverhampton, train announcers having their own version of English that did little
to help passengers find the correct platform.
Woolhampton Lock was previously turf-sided but was restored with a brick chamber. Turf-
sided locks were cheaper to build but used more water, something in short supply, especially
further up the canal. This one is just above the point at which the river is left.
