Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The market town of Berkhamsted drew its wealth from wool in the Middle Ages but also
became the port of Berkhamsted. It has four 17-18th century coaching inns and Berkhamsted
School, founded in 1541. Graham Greene was born here and went to the school, where his
father was headmaster, as a result of which he was bullied and was sent away for six months.
Sir James Barrie visited friends with five sons in Berkhamsted, who inspired
Peter Pan
, in
1904.
Berkhamsted Castle has a double moat, a tall 11th century motte and bailey, curtain walls
with D-plan towers and a square tower-like keep. It was built by Robert of Mortain, the half
brother of William the Conqueror, who received the oaths of allegiance of the Saxon kings
here in 1066. In the 12th century the timber was replaced with stone and flint walls, breached
by the stone-throwing machines of Louis of France and the barons opposed to King John in
1216, who took the castle after a fortnight's siege. Projecting platforms of the outer earth-
works may be siegework from this campaign. Brick buildings were added later. Thomas à
Becket spent time here as Chancellor. The Black Prince lived here from 1336 and it was a fa-
vourite royal residence until Elizabeth I. It was visited by Geoffrey Chaucer and Henry Tudor
and was used to imprison King John of France but had fallen into ruin by 1495, the materials
being used in town house building. It still belongs to the Prince of Wales.
The Crystal Palace pub may have obtained its name from locally-employed William Pax-
ton, the brother of Joseph Paxton who designed its larger namesake. Opposite is a totem pole
carved in 1967 by a Kwakiutl Indian from Vancouver that belonged to a Canadian timber
company. However, when they moved to new premises they were not allowed to take it with
them. A former boatbuilding yard launched craft sideways into the canal here. Berkhamsted
Bottom Lock, by the Boat, and the following lock, by the Rising Sun, were both referred to
as Sweep's because chimney sweep Eli Oliffe kept a boatman's store. Dalton Wharf, which
follows, had the first factory for producing sheep dip.
The 13th century St Peter's church, one of the largest in Hertfordshire, was restored
in 1871 by Butterfield and has several brasses and an east window dedicated to William
Cowper, whose father was rector when he was born in 1731. The 16th century Incent House
has been restored but the 17th century Sayer almshouses are intact because of a bequest by
Charles II's chief cook.
Hemel Hempstead Cricket Club's ground is screened by poplars as the canal approaches
Boxmoor Bottom Lock. The A414 crosses Two Waters Road Bridge, adjacent to the conflu-
ence with the River Gade, which is now followed.
The West Coast Main Line crosses for the last time and the canal wanders down to Kings
Langley. This is the site of a former papermill and the Ovaltine works and now features a
220kW wind turbine.
When the foundations were being dug for the Rudolph Steiner school in 1970 they un-
earthed the remains of a 13th century wine cellar. There was a 13th century friary here and
