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the backdrop to the altar mimic the Pantheon in Rome. (Via Speronari 3; admission free;
7.30-11.30am Mon-Fri, 3.30-6.30pm Sat;
Duomo)
5 Villa Necchi Campiglio
VILLA
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Set in a beautiful garden with a swimming pool, tennis court and tall magnolia
trees, this 1932 Piero Portaluppi-designed house is a symbol of Milan's wealth and
modernist imaginings. The superbly refurbished interiors are redolent of the Nec-
chi sisters' privileged lifestyles, with a profusion of domestic detail, while the walls
are hung with fabulous 20th-century Italian paintings. (
02 7634 0121;
www.casemuseo.it ; Via Mozart 14; adult/reduced €8/4;
10am-6pm Wed-Sun;
San Babila)
6 Chiesa di San
Bernardino alle Ossa
CHURCH, OSSUARY
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This church dates from the 13th century, when its ossuary was used to bury plague
victims from nearby San Barnaba hospital. It was rebuilt in rococo style in 1679,
after it collapsed beneath the fallen belltower of adjacent Santo Stefano. The walls
of the new ossuary, with its frescoed vault, Triumph of Souls Among Flying An-
gels, are now lined with a macabre flourish in human bones, finished with the
skulls of condemned prisoners. ( 02 855 63 04; Via Carlo Giuseppe Merlo 4; admission free;
7.30am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-noon Sat, 9am-noon Sun;
12, 15, 23, 27)
Understand
The Bull's Balls
Giuseppe Mengoni designed the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele as a showcase for mod-
ern Milan. Tragically, he plummeted to his death from scaffolding just weeks before
the 14-year project was completed in 1877. Long-standing Milanese tradition claims
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