Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
igate the narrow, shallow sections upriver. In rainy season, the river is navigable by
piragua
all the way to Pavarandó, the most inland of the eight indigenous communities
on the Sambú.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL IN THE DARIÉN
Travelers should carefully consider the impact they might have upon visiting Em-
berá and Wounaan communities in the Darién. Unlike Kuna Yala, the Darién sees
few foreign visitors. Yet as hosts, these groups are very hospitable.
Make an effort to respect the sensibilities of your hosts. Although some women
still go topless, these are still fairly conservative societies. Most villagers are happy
to pose for a photo, but you should always ask first. Photos of communities sent
back in thanks (via a guide) are treasured. After all, these societies have scant ac-
cess to cameras.
Instead of giving out candy or coins to village children, consider buying diction-
aries, Spanish-language books and much needed supplies to donate to local
schools.
Tourism has a long way to go to develop in the region, which is one reason why a
visit to an Emberá or Wounaan village is so refreshing. As visitors, we need to keep
in mind that we will all need to work together to promote cultural preservation.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Sambú
Riverside Sambú is an interesting stop, populated by Emberá and Cimarron people
(whose ancestors escaped the slave trade by living in the jungle). Urban by Darién stand-
ards, it has an airstrip, hospital and pay phone. Given the ease of flying in here, it makes
a good launch point to visit riverside Emberá and Wounaan communities and absorb the
slow jungle pace.
From Sambú visitors can plan enjoyable trips to
Puerto Indio
(with permission from
the Emberá and Wounaan) and visit petroglyphs or mangrove forests.
Bocaca Verano
is
a lagoon with crocodiles and prolific birdlife. Local guide Lupicinio, found in front of
Sambú house, guides hiking excursions (US$15 per person) to see harpy eagles and tours
to Bocaca Verano in dry season.
For boat tours, Juan Murillo takes visitors fishing (four passengers US$120) in the
Golfo de San Miguel in his 75-HP boat. Since there are no phones, ask around for either
guide.
