Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Furthermore, its habit of perching for long spells, even when people approach,
makes it vulnerable to poachers.
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Mogué
Although there are countless indigenous villages in the Darién, the majority of tourists
ultimately end up spending a night or two in Mogué, an Emberá village located on the
banks of the Río Mogué, roughly between Punta Patiño and La Palma. Villagers here are
keen to show off their culture and lifestyles, and extremely adept at finding harpy-eagle
nests in the surrounding jungle.
Despite the fact that Mogué is set up for tourism, it is still very much a traditional vil-
lage. Mogué sees fewer visitors than Emberá villages in Panamá Province and Kuna vil-
lages in the Comarca. Everything done for the benefit of tourists certainly has a price tag,
but the atmosphere in the village is extremely relaxed and there is no pressure to buy
crafts, give gifts or spend money.
While in Mogué visitors can watch a performance of traditional dance, purchase crafts
including woven baskets and tagua-nut carvings or get a jagua-juice 'tattoo,' in the same
manner that the Emberá paint themselves. Like henna, the tattoo stains the skin for up to
two weeks, so it's wise to consider where you'll be heading after the Darién before you
get painted. Although just a faint tattoo will appear immediately on your skin, the next
morning when you wake up, you'll be about as blue as a Smurf.
Aside from interacting with the Emberá villagers, the majority of whom speak Span-
ish, the highlight of Mogué is taking a guided two-hour walk to a nearby harpy-eagle
nest. Although there are no guarantees that you'll spot the bird, the local 'harpy-eagle
whistler' will do his best to call it back to its nest. The hike itself winds through lush sec-
ondary forest brimming with tropical birds. Bring a camera as harpy eagles are not easily
startled by human presence, and thus easily photographed if you have a telephoto lens.
Visitors may sleep in a tent underneath the communal gathering hall, or string up a
jungle hammock (bring your own). A private outhouse and cold shower are unlocked
when tour groups arrive. Meals include hearty portions of rice, beans, meat and plantains
- tasty and unbelievably filling. Although the village sounds are part of the whole experi-
ence, light sleepers may want to bring earplugs.
Several outfitters and guides offer overnight excursions to Mogué.
