Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There's no shortage of cheap and somewhat cheerful eateries in town.
La Unción
(
299-6372; mains US$2-5)
offers decent
comida criollo -
typical food like stewed chicken,
rice and fried plantains, served along with fiery sermons on the satellite TV.
not flying here, but there is an airstrip; check if flights have resumed.
To hire a boat and a guide, look in the vicinity of the dock for a responsible captain
with a seaworthy motorboat (US$120 to US$300 per day, gas included).
TOP OF CHAPTER
Reserva Natural Punta Patiño
On the southern shore of the Golfo de San Miguel, 25km from La Palma, is this private
263-sq-km
wildlife preserve
owned by ANCON and managed by the organization's for-
profit arm, Ancon Expeditions. The only way to reach the preserve is by boat or plane.
Landing on the tiny strip of ocean-side grass that's called a runway in these parts is def-
initely part of the experience.
The species-rich primary and secondary forest is one of the best places to spot harpy
eagles. There are many other birds and a good chance of seeing everything from three-
toed sloths and howler monkeys to crocodiles.
In the waterways around the reserve, you'll almost certainly see brown pelicans, mag-
nificent frigate birds and laughing gulls. Also look for terns (royal, sandwich and gull-
billed), American oystercatchers and waders on the beach near the lodge. Cetaceans like
bottlenose dolphins and humpback whales frequent the waters.
In the mangroves, you'll have a good chance of spotting Amazon kingfishers, white
ibises, and great and little blue herons as well as waders including willet, whimbrels and
spotted sandpipers. A specialty of the area is the black oropendola, which occurs more
than normal near Mogué. Late afternoon and early morning are good times to look for
crab-eating raccoons venturing to the water's edge.
A swampy flat supports communities of capybaras, the world's largest rodents. Com-
monly spotted mammals include gray foxes around the lodge (especially at night) and
tayras in patches of nearby dry forest.
One of the best parts of visiting Patiño is staying at ANCON's
Punta Patiño Lodge
(
in Panama City 269-9415;
www.anconexpeditions.com
; per person 3-night package incl guide,
meals & lodging US$750)
. Its wooden cabins have air-con, comfortable mattresses and
private cold-water showers - you won't miss hot water in these climes. Staff are ex-
tremely attentive and meals are fresh and well prepared. The lodge itself is perched atop