Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
issue of security. In 2012, SENAFRONT (the National Border Service) reported
seizing 5 tons of drugs.
Road building also provides a quick conduit for resource extraction. A road
through the Darién Gap would likely spur the deforestation of one of the world's
finest remaining tropical rainforests, precipitating a devastating habitat loss for its
unique flora and fauna. A cultural shift in remote communities would inevitably fol-
low.
Currently, Panama's mostly paved Interamericana Hwy travels deforested cattle
country to end at the sweaty, ramshackle town of Yaviza in Darién Province. The
road frequently deteriorates due to weather and heavy use by trucks. About
266km separate Yaviza from Panama City.
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La Palma
POP 1400
The provincial capital of Darién Province, La Palma is a one-street town located where
the wide Río Tuira meets the Golfo de San Miguel. Pastel stilt houses lord over the
muddy waterfront, a scene abuzz with commerce, bars and evangelist messages.
Most travelers pass through La Palma for one of two reasons: they're here to catch a
plane to somewhere else, or they're here to take a boat ride to somewhere else. The two
most popular boating destinations are the Ancon nature reserve and lodge at Reserva
Natural Punta Patiño and the Emberá villages that line the banks of the Río Sambú.
Every facility of possible interest to the traveler is located on the main street, which is
within 300m of the airstrip. La Palma is home to the only bank in the Darién Province,
Banco Nacional de Panamá. There is also a hospital, a port and a police station (if you
intend to go anywhere near the Colombian border and you speak Spanish, you should
talk to the police here first), as well as three hotels, three bars and several food stands.
The waterfront
Hospedaje Pablo & Benita
( 299-6490; Calle Central Abajo; s/d US$10/
12)
has thin walls and mattresses but good sea views. The friendly owners can help ar-
range visits to the Emberá community of Mogué. The comparatively upscale
Hotel Bia-
quira Bagara
( 299-6224; d with/without bathroom US$25/17; )
is simple and sweet,
with hardwood decks, wicker furniture and firm beds. There is a basic market below: if
you're boating upriver, stock up on groceries here.
