Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the UN-backed convention governing trade in illegal species (CITES) to help regu-
late trade in its rare hardwoods because of rampant illegal logging.
Fighting the problem isn't easy. Panama's national parks are sparsely staffed,
though their territory is colossal. In the Parque Nacional Darién, only 20 rangers
protect 5760 sq km, an area more expansive than some countries.
For more information on the environmental situation in Panama, visit the home
page of ANCON (
314-0060; www.ancon.org ) .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Metetí
Located 1km southeast of the police checkpoint, Metetí buzzes with passing traffic, but
few stay. The town's primary function is to get travelers to La Palma via a scenic boat
ride. Yet lodging options are preferable to those in Yaviza. For last-minute purchases
there is a good-sized grocery store.
Bleach-scented Hotel Felicidad ( 299-6544; d US$23; ) is one of the more decent
hotels, with clean cement rooms. Nearby Restaurante Johana (mains US$3.50) serves
meat dishes with rice and plantain, and fresh juice but no beer.
Ecolodge Filo de Tallo ( in Panama 223-9283, 6673-5381; www.panamadarien.com ; 4-day
package per person from US$1050) sits perched upon a grassy knoll on the outskirts of
Metetí. Once a shooting range for the Noriega camp, the transformation of this space to
ethno-adventure tourism couldn't be stranger. Run by Panama Exotic Adventures, the
lodge is primitive but handsome, with three well-spaced thatched huts with bamboo
walls. Firm beds are draped in mosquito netting and attached bathrooms are set with pas-
tel river stones and handcarved basins. The open-air living and dining area sports a stun-
ning panorama of the region. French-run, the lodge provides good international and
Panamanian cuisine served with wine. Activities include kayaking and visiting a Woun-
aan village. While the lodge occupies a deforested sector just on the tip of the Darién, it
is one of the best lodgings in the region and provides a good dose of indigenous culture.
It is also certified as carbon-neutral by Forest Finance. Packages include all meals and
activities and transportation to/from Panama City.
For the boat to La Palma, take the turnoff for Puerto Quimba, a port on the Río Iglesi-
as. The paved road between Metetí and Puerto Quimba is about 20km long. A passenger
pickup shuttles between Metetí and Puerto Quimba every 30 minutes from 6am until
9pm (US$3), or take a taxi (US$10).
 
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