Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Emberá and Wounaan survive on subsistence agriculture supplemented by limited
fishing and poultry raising. Historically, both groups were more reliant on slash-and-burn
agriculture and hunting, which are practices now restricted in the national park. Increased
commercial rice and maize plantations offer work for seasonal migrant laborers.
The Emberá and Wounaan are also exceptional woodcarvers and basket weavers.
Boas, frogs and birds are traditionally carved from dark cocobolo hardwood; now tiny
animal figurines are also made from tagua nuts. The women produce some of the finest
baskets in Latin America. Woven from palm fibers, each requires months of intensive
labor. These products fetch a high market price, and provide a much-needed secondary
income for most communities.
Emberá and Wounaan homes are extremely well-suited to the rainforest. Built on stilts
3m to 4m off the ground, flooring uses thin, strong, strips of plentiful palm bark. The
vaulted design protects occupants and food from ground pests and swollen rivers.
Beneath, medicinal plants and edible vegetables and roots are grown. Many homes are
thatched and open-sided for breezes, with mud ovens.
Western clothing is replacing traditional attire, except for older individuals. Women,
who traditionally wore only a skirt, increasingly don bras and shirts. Many wear tradi-
tional jewelry, especially wide silver bracelets and elaborate silver-coin necklaces. They
also stain their bodies with purplish black designs made with juice from the jagua fruit.
The dye is believed to have health-giving properties and wards off insects.
Like the Kuna, the Emberá and Wounaan have a strong measure of political autonomy,
though under threat of increasing external pressures. These include encroachment by
Latino settlers and habitat destruction by loggers, accelerated in recent years due to the
paving of the Interamericana. Missionaries, particularly evangelicals, have almost en-
tirely eliminated the core religious values of both groups. Youth flee to the cities for em-
ployment prospects, which has prompted fears that both cultures are dwindling fast.
Tours
The Darién is the only major part of Panama where a guide is necessary. If you speak
Spanish, you can hire guides locally for about US$20 to US$30 per day. However, trans-
portation costs can be very expensive. If you go with a tour operator, they will take care
of all arrangements without a language barrier, teach you about the incredible local eco-
logy, cook for you and humor you when you have blisters. Another option is to go with
an independent guide.
Jungle Treks
ADVENTURE TOUR
