Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the local Kuna communities catch up with their favorite Venezuelan soap operas without
paying a cent.
Unless you're on an organized tour - or you have your own yacht - you're going to
need to hire a boat and a guide to come out here. Depending on the distance between
your hotel and your destination, you can expect to pay between US$50 and US$100
round trip to reach the cays. Be aware that the seas can get very rough out here, so make
sure you have confidence in the seaworthiness of your captain and his vessel. You're also
going to want to make sure there are enough life jackets on board for everyone - and
don't forget your snorkeling gear! Needless to say, the snorkeling in the Cayos Holan-
deses is astounding, though you'll see plenty of tropical fish and colorful reefs anywhere
in the cays.
CHOCOSANOS
Historically, most of the boats claimed by Wreck Reef were the victims of
chocosanos- 'storms that come from the east' in Kuna.Chocosanosare ghastly
tempests that whip up monstrous waves that can overrun entire islands. Such
waves have swept many Kuna and their homes out to sea, though there are early
warning signs, such as a purple-black easterly sky and a lack of breeze and bird-
song.
When achocosanois approaching, Kuna elders traditionally combat the storm
by blowing into conch shells. The sound alerts their benevolent god, Paba Tummat,
who tries to intervene and disperse thechocosano.
At the southern end of Wreck Reef, a freighter lies with its hull fully exposed and
its deck flat against the ocean floor - a hulking vessel that was once flipped like a
pancake by a mightychocosano.
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Corazón de Jesús & Nearby Islands
Corazón de Jesús & Narganá
The densely populated islands of Corazón de Jesús and Narganá, which are linked by an
arcing wooden footbridge, are of little interest to travelers, especially since they're the
most Westernized Kuna communities in the Comarca. Here Kuna families inhabit con-
crete cinderblock houses, wear Western clothing and hold all-island baseball tourna-
