Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Trash is a problem on the islands, and there is no effective plan for its removal.
For the Kunas, the cost of removal to the mainland is too high, and there is no des-
ignated site or 'culture' of waste management, since all refuse was relatively innoc-
uous until outside influence prevailed. You may see litter and burning piles of
plastics. With no current solution to the issue, do what you can to pack out your
own garbage, if necessary, and try to consume fresh products with minimal pack-
aging - ie choose coconut water over cola.
The way you dress (or fail to) is another issue. Kuna men never go shirtless and
Kuna women dress conservatively, with their cleavage, bellies and most of their
legs covered. Arriving in Kuna villages in bikinis or shirtless is interpreted as a sign
of disrespect. In general, it is not worth risking offending local sensibilities.
To rein in the situation, the Kuna charge fees for photographs taken of them as
well as visitation fees for each island. Forget the way things work back home. Re-
member this is their territory and their rules apply. If you can't afford the photo fee,
just tuck away your camera and strike up a conversation instead.
Wichub-Walá
POP 100
Just a five-minute boat ride from El Porvenir, the community island of Wichub-Walá is
often touted by travelers as a good place to meet and interact with the Kuna. People here
are friendly but not as overtly commercial as islanders living closer to the road at Cartí.
Reached via a sandy labyrinth through thatched dwellings and alleyway soccer
matches,
Kuna Niskua Lodge
( 225-5200; r per person all inclusive US$80)
is a two-story
thatch and bamboo structure. Though undergoing some renovation, it's utterly basic, with
electricity only at night, cold water and no door locks. The host may be scarce, so guests
need to be independent. Yet the charm of surrounding street life is infectious. Transfer
from Cartí is included.
TOP OF CHAPTER
East Lemons
A lovely island chain popular with yachts (there's a mooring close to a good scuba site),
visitors are likely to spend time here if traveling by sailboat.
Visitors here may be approached by a motorized dugout canoe with traveling master
mola
maker
Venancio Restrepo
( 6500-7302)
. He carries buckets of beautiful
molas
(US$20 to US$70) made by himself or others.
