Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
It is becoming more common to see pleasure yachts and sailboats in the region, though
it is not without controversy. Upset at the perceived competition, the Kuna Congress is
thinking of outlawing these 'floating hotels.' Yet individual Kunas who live in remote
areas are often supportive, since the boats support locals by buying their produce and
molas
.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Cartí, El Porvenir & Around
Cartí
POP 400
Cartí is the collective name for a group of islands and a small strip of coast that is a
45-minute boat trip south of El Porvenir. If you've arrived in the Comarca by 4WD, the
coastal hamlet of Cartí will be your first port of call. There is also a small airstrip (cur-
rently closed) just outside town.
Most places here are all in Cartí Suitupo or 'Crab Island,' a mere 100m from the main-
land and one of the most densely populated islands in the Comarca: crowded as Manhat-
tan at rush hour and terribly polluted. Although there are plenty of other real estate op-
tions in the area, islanders have it easy here, especially since Cartí Suitupo is a popular
port of call for cruise ships. Be warned that if there's a cruise ship docked here, your cul-
tural experience will take on a whole new definition.
The small
museum
( 6085-9592; admission US$3; 8am-4pm)
offers a better cultur-
al and historical understanding of the Kuna. A guided tour with Delfino Davies (he
speaks some English) will elucidate everything from Kuna coming-of-age rituals to fu-
nerary rites. For general tours, contact Kuna guide
Hernan Martinez
(
6517-7417)
, who
speaks English.
Cartí Suitupo also serves as a base for exploring nearby
Isla Aguja
(Needle Island), a
picture-perfect retreat with lazy palms, golden sands and gentle surf.
SAILING THE KUNA YALA TO COLOMBIA
If you're a backpacker or don't mind living like one in the name of adventure, con-
sider this. Small sailboats can take passengers to Colombia via the scenic Ar-
chipiélago de San Blás for the same price as a flight. But the trip may not be for
everyone.
