Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
survival training, though America's hasty exit from Panama in 1999 didn't leave much
time for cleaning up shop.
Today, most travelers set their sights on the ruins of Fuerte San Lorenzo, but there are
plenty of opportunities here for jungle exploration. The secondary forests of the protec-
ted area are rich in bird life and there's no shortage of mountainous trails and waterfall-
fed ponds to discover.
History
Following the destruction of Nombre de Dios by Sir Francis Drake in 1573, the Spanish
moved to fortify the Caribbean coast. Of principal concern was the Río Chagres, which
flowed inland to the town of Venta de Cruces (near the modern town of Gamboa), and
then linked up with the trade route leading to the city of Panamá. In 1595, by order of
Phillip II of Spain, Fuerte San Lorenzo was built into the side of a steep cliff near the
river mouth. Fuerte San Lorenzo, Portobelo and Panamá, the 'three keys' of the Amer-
icas, became known as the strategic hearts of the Spanish trade empire.
Once established, Fuerte San Lorenzo was under constant pirate attack. In 1596, only
one year after its completion, Drake seized San Lorenzo. Although later recovered and
rebuilt with greater fortifications, San Lorenzo was again assaulted, this time by Sir
Henry Morgan in 1671. Captain Morgan (of the spiced-rum fame) succeeded in over-
powering its guns and sailing up the Río Chagres. A few months later Morgan burnt
Panamá to the ground, pilfered its riches and sailed back to England with galleons laden
with Spanish treasure.
In 1680 a new fortification was built on the highest part of the cliff, but this was no
match for British Admiral Vernon, who destroyed San Lorenzo yet again in 1740. In
1761 the Spanish once more rebuilt San Lorenzo, though the decision to abandon the
overland trade route in favor of sailing around the Cape Horn meant that the fort didn't
suffer further attacks. As a result, Fuerte San Lorenzo was abandoned by Spain in 1821
when Panama became independent. The fort was subsequently used as a Colombian pris-
on, a post office for inbound English mail and a campsite for gold miners en route to
California.
In order to defend the Panama Canal Zone, the US military built Fuerte Sherman in
1911 with the purpose of defending the Atlantic side of the canal. Although post-WWII
changes in war technology meant that the fortifications were rendered obsolete, the area
surrounding the fort became an important jungle warfare training center. In 1963 these
operations came under the responsibility of the US-army-run 'School of the Americas' in
nearby Fuerte Gullick, but five years later the 'Jungle Operations Training Center' be-
came an independent entity. Fuerte Sherman subsequently became the main jungle opera-
