Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
falls, abundant wildlife and impressive viewpoints over the Sixaola River Valley and the
Talamanca Mountains.
On a day trip, you can boat the Sixaola and Yorkin Rivers, hike through rainforest or
go horseback riding. Lunch prepared by villagers is usually fresh fish. Prices are quite
reasonable, at around US$20 to US$30 per person. There are also rustic
cabins
(per per-
son US$20)
available, though hardy travelers can string up a hammock or pitch a tent at
one of the
ranchos
. Remember that it's relatively undeveloped (there's no electricity), so
bring your own supplies, especially a water purifier, flashlight, mosquito net and bug re-
pellent.
Make arrangements to visit Las Delicias through the Changuinola ANAM office or by
phoning the community tourism management at
Las Delicias
( 6600-4042)
directly.
To reach the community, take a bus from Changuinola to Las Tablas (US$2, 1½ hours,
hourly), followed by a taxi to Las Delicias (US$10). You can also negotiate a price with
one of the 4WD taxis in Changuinola.
SAVING THE PENÍNSULA VALIENTE
Located some 40km southwest of Bocas del Toro town, the hilly Península Valiente
extends 30km into the Caribbean Sea. With dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches,
this entire peninsula is part of the self-governing Ngöbe-Buglé Comarca. Until now,
this roadless area has remained largely inaccessible.
In 2011, the mayor of one of the towns in the Comarca was implicated in the illeg-
al sale of 189 hectares of Comarca land adjacent to Playa Chiriquí to Costa Rican
investors developing a tourist venture known as Desarrollo Turístico Cañaveral.
At the center of the controversy is Playa Chiriquí, a stunning 25km beach.
Between two Ngöbe communities, it was one of the most important hawksbill sea
turtle nesting sites in the Caribbean until the 1950s. While local hunting almost
wiped out these populations, hawksbills and leatherbacks are making a comeback
thanks to the efforts of the Caribbean Conservation Corporation and Ngöbe com-
munity.
Playa Chiriquí and the adjacent wetland ecosystems have also been declared a
Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands -
Damani-Guariviara Wetland. This wetland is one of only two areas in Panama in-
habited by the endangered West Indian manatee.
Over the years, outlandish proposals have ranged from the government creating
an 80-hotel resort complex known as 'New Cancun' to earlier plans to put Damani
beach in the hands of US developers. Opposition of most Ngöbe peoples to all
these proposals from outsiders has been crucial in stopping the projects.
