Bocas del Toro Province - Panama - page 369

) is a lovely, secluded resort that won't mind if you bare all. Three snug bungalows
have sweet sea views and private balconies. There is no air-conditioning, but you can
count on a decent breeze and fans, as well as hot-water showers. Guests (adults only) get
free rein to paddle the kayaks, self-serve drinks or lounge at the pool or the tiny white-
sand beach. Guests get one free water taxi to Bocas per day, otherwise the cost to get out
here (US$25 round trip) is steep.
Isla Solarte is a quick and easy boat ride from the waterfront in Bocas town, but
lodgings on the far end are considerably more expensive to reach. If you want to snorkel
at Hospital Point, you can either organize a private tour or negotiate a price with a water
taxi.
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Isla San Cristóbal
H alf an hour away from Bocas town is another world - the Ngöbe community on Isla
San Cristóbal. These subsistence farmers and fishers have a strong sense of Ngöbe iden-
tity, though they live mostly in difficult circumstances.
On a day trip, you can see how the Ngöbe prepare and dye fibers to make chacara
bags, tour medicinal gardens and enjoy a traditional meal cooked over the wood fire. For
a visitor, it's an opportunity to see life as it's lived without much gloss. Visitor fees (day
tours US$20 per person with lunch) benefit the local community. The Peace Corps has
helped develop Isla San Cristóbal Hostel ( 6832-9118; www.keteka.com/destinations/
latin-america/panama/isla-san-cristobal ; tours, meals and 2-night lodging US$75) , a community-
run ecolodge with basic mosquito-net draped beds, rainwater catchment showers and
composting toilets. Boat taxis (US$60 round trip) charge by boat, not per person. For ar-
rangements, you can also contact Bocas Sustainable Tourism Alliance ( Click here ).
Also on the island, Dolphin Bay is famous for sightings of dolphin pods. If you're a
fan, consider staying at Dolphin Bay Hideaway ( 6772-9917, 6417-7351;
www.dolphinbayhideaway.com ; d incl 2 meals US$120-160; ) , a charming and highly re-
commended inn run by Transylvanian Erika and her husband, who is from the island.
Located on the mangrove, it's a lovely two-story home with a big wooden deck, docks
with hammocks and a lily pond. Rooms are romantic and well appointed, with canopy
beds and pitchers of water, but you are also entitled to 'all the coconuts you can drink.'
They also offer tours around the area.