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riverside patio bar with other guests proves a fine cap on the day. Rooms with some can-
opy beds are lovely and modern, and service stands out.
Villa Marita Lodge LODGE $$$
( 720-2165; www.villamarita.com ; d/ste US$72/149, cabin US$94; ) On the edge of a
plateau overlooking a vast expanse of coffee farms, these cute cabins offer striking views
of Volcán Barú - when it isn't cloudy. There is onsite dining and wi-fi in public areas.
Though clean and bright, it seems a little overpriced.
Coffee Estate Inn B&B $$$
$$$
( 720-2211; www.coffeeestateinn.com ; Calle Jaramillo Alto; 2-person cabin incl breakfast US$198;
) In the lap of coffee-estate luxury, these lovely orange-grove bungalows are
surrounded by a 1.5km network of private trails that wind through gardens and forest. It
is all about escape here, though guests also rave about the attentive service of hosts Jane
and Barry. Cabins are spacious and smart, with complete kitchens, heated floors and
private terraces with valley views.
The estate is also home to a working coffee farm, the source of your morning brew,
and oranges, as well as a delicious coffee liqueur. Guests get a complimentary coffee tour
(three-night minimum) and the recommended option of custom romantic dinners. The
inn has an extensive library, recycles, promotes energy conservation and offers reusable
containers for restaurant take-out.
Finca Lérida LODGE $$$
$$$
( 720-1111; www.fincalerida.com ; Calle 2 Norte; d/ste incl breakfast US$165/275; )
Famous for its legendary bird-watching, Finca Lérida is a working coffee farm that hap-
pens to be an avian hot spot that's one of the best places in the country to see quetzals.
You can also tour the coffee farm. Standard rooms are tastefully decorated with country-
side motifs, each with deck and outdoor seating to watch the hummingbirds. Suites fea-
ture Jacuzzis.
Guests and day-trippers can dine at the onsite restaurant, which features excellent
salads made with local produce and housemade yogurt-dill dressing, in addition to well-
prepared Panamanian favorites, sandwiches and homemade rhubarb pie.
Hotel Los Establos BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
$$$
( 720-2685; www.losestablos.net ; d/ste incl breakfast US$215/330; ) Former stables,
these lavish quarters surrounded by manicured grounds and a coffee farm bear no trace
of their past. Decor is elegant but a little fussy, heavy on brocade, carved mirrors and
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