Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
We recommended the whole fried fish with
patacones
(slices of fried green plaintain). At
breakfast there's US$3 pancakes.
WORTH A TRIP
ART ISLAND: ISLA GOBERNADORA
If you ever wanted to watch the moon rise from your thatched hut,
Art Lodge
(
6636-5180;
www.artlodgepanama.com
; all-inclusive per person per day US$95-115)
satisfies the
urge, and comfortably so. Both original and inspiring, this island retreat is run by
two very hospitable French artists. The setting is Isla Gobernadora, home to a quiet
fishing village, forested trails and a few white-sand beaches. And the idea is that it
stays that way.
To create income for island women, Valerie and Yves have put together commu-
nity art cooperatives that use found objects to make gorgeous belts, handbags and
decorations crafted with quality and design sense. Guests can tour the village and
workshops, talk with locals, snorkel, practice yoga and beachcomb. While the hill-
side lodge has a stony beach (a few good ones are within walking distance), there
is a stream perfect for dips and a lovely lounge area with art, games and futons.
Meals incorporate fresh local seafood, fruit and vegetables. Open-airranchoshave
double beds with mosquito nets and showers half-walled by foliage. While alfresco
living may not be for all, it is certainly paradise for some.
For those on a tight budget who want to enjoy Isla Gobernadora, contact the Art
Lodge for help arranging a homestay with locals in basic accommodations.
Due to its remoteness, the Art Lodge requires a three-day stay. A visit includes
transportation to and from the mainland (either Santa Catalina or Puerto Mutis),
all meals, a daily excursion and a welcome cocktail. A taxi from Santiago to Puerto
Mutis costs US$18.
Getting There & Away
To reach Santa Catalina from Panama City, first take a bus to Santiago, then another to
Soná where buses leave to Santa Catalina (US$4.65, 1½ hours) at 5am, 11am, 2pm or
4:30pm. The driver may be able to take you to a listed hotel for an additional fee. If you
miss the bus, hire a taxi from Soná to Santa Catalina from US$60. Direct Soná/Panama
City buses run every two hours.
From Santa Catalina, three buses serve Soná daily, leaving at 7am, 8:20am and
1:15pm. In Santa Catalina, the bus stops at the intersection with the beach road. If you're
staying outside of the center, most lodgings are a 1km walk on mostly flat but unshaded
