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sumptuous setting. Winding walkways link imposing stone and Spanish tile lodgings,
though they look slightly better at a distance. Modern rooms are decked in finery, some
with king-sized beds, oversized tiles and stone baths.
The fountain of youth concept follows through with a ritzy 'anti-aging' spa (though
strangely not with the Irish pub). Guests are split between those making the health pil-
grimage and well-to-do families on vacation.
Crater Valley Resort & Adventure Spa RESORT $$$
$$$
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( 983-6942; www.crater-valley.com ; d incl breakfast from US$128; ) With offer-
ings like rock climbing, guided rainforest hikes, a swimming pool and spa, Crater Valley
caters to all, from the active to the inert. Surrounded by beautifully tended grounds, guest
rooms are all different and executed with varying degrees of care - some are clearly
dated. All feature hammock patios.
Prices fluctuate depending on the time of year, the day of the week and the size of the
room, so it's best to book ahead.
Eating
Restaurante Santa Librada PANAMANIAN $
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(Av Central; mains US$3-5) Cheap and cheerful, Santa Librada does hearty portions of
Panamanian staples such as lomo de arroz (beef with rice) and bistec picado (spicy
shredded beef), as well as sandwiches and breakfast. Try the locally famous sancocho de
gallina (a stewlike chicken soup).
Hotel y Restaurante Los Capitanes INTERNATIONAL $
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(Calle El Ciclo; mains US$5-15; 7:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun) Serving pasta, sea-
food and tasty German staples such as sauerkraut and imbiss (meatloaf), this open-air
restaurant has a relaxed and quiet setting. Don't miss the freshly baked cakes and fruit
shakes. The long list of imported beers includes dark and dreamy Warsteiners .
Pinocchio's PIZZERIA $
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