Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Río Chagres, which flows through the park and supplies most of the water for the
Panama Canal, is home to several Emberá and Wounaan communities. Although the Dar-
ién is the ancestral home of these two indigenous groups, a wave of migration to the
shores of the Río Chagres commenced in the 1950s. However, following the establish-
ment of the national park in the 1980s, the government stopped the practice of slash-and-
burn agriculture, which has severely affected their livelihood. Today, several villages are
turning to tourism for survival.
Before visiting these communities, it's important to realize that over the past 50 years,
both the Emberá and the Wounaan have had a turbulent history of land grabs, legal
battles and political misrepresentation. Both groups have been forced to modernize,
though the Emberá and the Wounaan still maintain their incredibly rich cultural heritage.
If you arrive expecting to see villagers living traditional lifestyles in harmony with the
land, then you will be disappointed. However, the Emberá and the Wounaan still have a
lot to show to visitors, especially their traditional dances, music, handicrafts and the sur-
rounding national park.
The neighboring Emberá community of
Ella Puru
( 6537-7223)
and Wounaan com-
munity of
San Antonio
( 6637-9503)
regularly receive tourists and with prior notice
you can arrange a pickup from the docks in Gamboa. Tour prices depend on the activities
you arrange. There is no shortage of possible excursions, ranging from guided rainforest
walks to watching traditional dances.
the agency of Anne Gordon de Barrigón, a former animal trainer who married into this
warm Emberá community. The tour is well done and provides loads of cultural insight.
Fishing
Fishing is permitted on the Río Chagres and Lago Gatún. If you're interested in arran-
ging a private tour, contact Panama Canal Fishing.
Panama Rainforest Discovery Center
PARK
( 6588-0697;
www.pipelineroad.org
; adult/child US$20/4; 6am-4pm)
Geared towards
ecotourism and environmental education, Panama Rainforest Discovery Center is an ex-
cellent facility for bird-watchers and nature lovers. Since you are probably coming to
watch wildlife, it's worth making an effort to roll out of bed early. You will be kindly re-
warded for the effort. In fact, those arriving after 10am pay US$10 less in admission, a
sure sign that the value is less. During premium hours, only 25 visitors are admitted to
minimize the impact on wildlife. With advance reservations, groups can set up special
night tours.
