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rooms are shy - or too serious. A brick lobby with living vegetation wall at the bar says,
'Welcome, what's your story?'
Los Cuatro Tulipanes APARTMENT $$$
$$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 211-0877; www.loscuatrotulipanes.com ; office Av Central btwn Calles 3 & 4; apt from US$140;
) Ideal for travelers yearning for a little independence and privacy, the 'four
tulips' are in fact a set of luxury apartments in distinct Casco Viejo locations. While each
is unique, all are elegant restored spaces with features like handpainted tiles, hardwood
details, high ceilings and private terraces. Some have a concierge.
Kitchens come fully equipped, and maid service, wi-fi, cable TV and coffee and tea
are included.
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4 Caledonia
Caledonia is central to city highlights, but itself is a very working-class area not frequen-
ted by outsiders. Given that foot traffic dwindles in the evening, it's best to take taxis at
night.
Mamallena HOSTEL $
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( 6676-6163, 393-6611; www.mamallena.com ; Calle Primera Perejil; dm/d incl breakfast US$13/
33; ) On a residential street that's somehow survived the wrecking ball, this
small, homey hostel nails the mark on service. Amenities include 24-hour desk service,
pancake breakfasts and DVD library. High-ceiling dorms have air-con at night and the
cute motel-style doubles offer considerable privacy. The onsite travel agency offers sail-
ing to San Blas and popular day trips.
Renovations with more doubles and a swimming pool are coming.
Hotel Andino HOTEL $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
( 225-1162; www.hotelandino.net ; Calle 35 Este; s/d US$49/55/65; ) Rooms at the
Andino come up short on charm, but they're big, clean and equipped like a start-up
apartment. Request a king-size and you can also get a two-burner stove for some self-ca-
 
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