Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Island “Hopscotch” Passes
If you want the freedom to hop around
a bit from mainland to island and
from island to the peninsulas west of
Glasgow, then it may be worth buying
an “Island Hopscotch” ticket from
the ferry operator
Caledonian
MacBrayne
(
&
0870/565-0000;
www.calmac.co.uk). For example, you
can hop from Wymess Bay to the Isle
of Bute, from there to Cowal peninsula,
and then onward to Kintyre peninsula.
In summer, the cost for that excursion
is around £9 per passenger and £40 for
a car. Call
&
0870/565-0000.
the grassy courtyard. If you dare (and you're thin enough), you can descend from the
Gatehouse into a small dungeon once reserved for prisoners.
Rothesay, Isle of Bute.
&
01700/502-691.
www.historic-scotland.gov.uk. Admission £4.20 adults,
£3.40 seniors, £2.50 children. AmEx, MC, V. Apr-Sept daily 9:30am-5:30pm; Oct-Mar Mon-Wed, Sat-
Sun 9:30am-4:30pm.
Cowal & Kintyre Peninsulas
West of Glasgow, the Cowal and Kintyre peninsulas extend their fingers into the sea,
creating long salt-water fiords that extend well north up to the Highlands. The main
town and ferry port for Cowal is
Dunoon,
which offers a place to stock up on goods.
The landscape features magnificent sea lochs, gentle hills, and forested glens. High-
lights include the
Benmore Botanic Garden
(daily Mar-Oct) 11km (7 miles)
north of Dunoon on Cowal. It has giant redwoods and thickets of rhododendrons.
The village of
Tighnabruaich
is a mecca for boaters, set in a picturesque natural
bay across from the isle of Bute. Indeed, you can get a lesson on splicing the main
brace (or at least sailing a dinghy) at the local sailing school.
On Kintyre, the lovely harbor of
Tarbert
is where many local fishing boats
land. At the ferry slip you can purchase fresh scallops, as well as live crabs and
lobsters. Avian populations abound in this region of Scotland, and breeds include
black-headed gulls, gannets, oystercatchers, razorbills, and shags (and those are just
a few of the seabirds). An observatory is on the island of
Sanda,
just off the tip (or
mull) of Kintyre. On the peninsula itself, however, another bird-watching blind is
situated near the west coast village of
Machrihanish.
Where to Stay & Dine
An Lochan
SEAFOOD This hotel overlooking the sea in Tighnabruaich
offers some luxurious rooms, but without a hint of pretension or attitude from the
McKie family owners or staff. The “superior sea view” rooms fit the bill, offering
huge super king-size beds and ample bathrooms (with tubs and showers), comfy
leather-upholstered furnishings, and little goodies such as fresh fruit on arrival (and
swallows nesting in the eaves). Meals in the two conservatory dining rooms highlight
the excellent locally landed seafood and fish as well as Argyllshire venison and beef.
Tighnabruaich, Argyll.
&
01700/811-236.
Fax 01700/811-300. Dinner main courses £18-£20. Reserva-
tions required. Mon-Sun noon-3pm and 6-9pm. www.anlochan.co.uk. 11 units. £100-£200 double with
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar.
In room:
TV, hair dryer.
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