Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
16
FROMMER'S FAVORITE GLASGOW
experiences
Taking the Mackintosh “Trail” and Dis-
covering “Greek” Thomson
Architec-
ture in Glasgow has not always been
appreciated, and city planners after
World War II had a mind to accomplish
what German bombers had not: That
is, knock down the city's glorious Vic-
torian structures. Luckily they were
stopped. In the 19th century, the city
spawned two singular stars of architec-
ture: The now-famous Charles Rennie
Mackintosh as well as the lesser-
known, but equally talented, Alexander
“Greek” Thomson.
Visiting the Kelvingrove Art Gallery
and the Burrell Collection
The artistic
pièces de résistance
of Glasgow (and
some say in all of Scotland), the Kelv-
ingrove—restored in 2006—and Burrell
are two of the city's major attractions.
The former showcases the excellent
municipal art collection. The latter
shows what a virtually unlimited
budget, acquired during the lifetime of
shipping baron Sir William Burrell, can
purchase.
Hanging Out in the West End
From
dining in trendy bistros to shopping at
vintage clothing or antiquary book-
shops—or just strolling the streets near
the University and around the Botanic
Gardens, Glasgow's West End is bound
to have something to interest the eru-
dite explorer.
Downing a Dram in a Glasgow Bar
Whether sipping a 12-year-old single
malt whisky from the island of Islay or
nursing a pint of lager, you should find
that Glasgow's many bars are the best
places to connect with the local popu-
lation. In contrast to the essay by the
20th-century poet Hugh MacDiarmid,
the city's drinkers are generally not
“dour” but rather friendly if occasion-
ally direct.
movements. Given its quality, what's more amazing is that Mackintosh was not yet
30 when he designed the place. It is still a working—and much respected—school,
whose graduates continue to make their mark in the international art world. Guided
tours are the only way to see the entire building, a highlight of which has to be the
library. The airy landing one flight up serves as the school's exhibition space: The
Mackintosh Gallery, while the basement has a new, well-stocked shop.
167 Renfrew St.
&
0141/353-4526.
www.gsa.ac.uk. Tours £8.75 adult, £7 seniors and students, £4 chil-
dren, £23.50 family. AE, MC, V. Advance reservations recommended. Apr-Sept daily 10am, 11am, noon, 2,
4, and 5pm; Oct-Mar daily 11am and 3pm. The Mackintosh Shop Apr-Sept daily 9:30am-6:30pm, Oct-
Mar daily 10am-5pm. Underground: Cowcaddens. Train: Charing Cross. Bus: 16, 18, 44, or 57.
St. Vincent Street Church
This should be a three-star, must-see attraction,
but access to the public is limited by the evangelic reformed Free Kirk of Scotland
congregation that worships here. Nevertheless, the church remains the most visible
landmark attributed to the city's other great architect, Alexander “Greek” Thomson.
Built in 1859, the stone edifice offers two classic Greek porticos facing north and
south, aside which a clock tower rises, decorated in all manner of exotic yet curi-
ously sympathetic Egyptian, Assyrian, and even Indian-looking motifs and designs.
The interior is surprisingly colorful.
265 St. Vincent St. Sun services at 11am and 6:30pm. www.greekthomsonchurch.com/our-building.
Bus: 62.
