Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
marmalade, and a vast selection of shortbreads. 48 Princes St. &   0870/607-2841. www.
houseoffraser.co.uk.
John Lewis The largest department store in Scotland, this branch of John Lewis
is many people's first choice when it comes to shopping for clothes, appliances,
furniture, toys, and more. St. James Centre (near Picardy Place at the top of Leith Walk).
&   0131/556-9121. www.johnlewis.com.
Food & Wine
I.J. Mellis Cheesemongers This shop sells award-winning British and
Irish cheeses, and the staff really know their stuff. There are other similar shops in
Old Town on Victoria Street (convenient to the Royal Mile), as well as on Morning-
side Road on the Southside. Bakers Place (Kerr St.). &   0131/225-6566. www.mellischeese.
co.uk.
Lupe Pintos A compact shop in the Tollcross neighborhood, chock full of
Mexican food stuffs from fresh tortillas to bottles of hot sauce and a unique tequila
selection. It also stocks a good supply of North American goods, as well as some
exotic treats from the Far East. 24 Leven St. (near the King's Theatre). &   0131/228-6241. www.
lupepintos.com.
Valvona & Crolla This Italian deli has an excellent reputation across the
U.K., thanks to a wonderful range of European cheeses and Italian cured meats,
fresh fruit and vegetables (often flown in from the Milan market), plus superb wines
and baked goods--from rolls to real sourdough loaves. 19 Elm Row (Leith Walk).
&   0131/556-6066. www.valvonacrolla.co.uk.
Gifts
Flux This little shop in the heart of Leith offers a nice collection of Scottish
crafts, ethically conscious gifts, and an excellent card collection. Flux is the ideal
antidote to the typical tartan tat found in so many gift shops. 55 Bernard St. &   0131/554-
4075. www.get2flux.co.uk.
Ness Scotland On the Royal Mile, Ness is not a twee woolen shop. It has two
outlets filled with knitwear, skirts, T-shirts, and whimsical accessories, scoured from
areas around the country from the Orkney Islands to the Borders. You'll find hand-
loomed cardigans and tasteful scarves, amid much more. In addition to the outlet
near the castle, there is another on the High Street. 336 Lawnmarket. &   0131/225-8155.
www.nessbypost.com.
Tartan Gift Shop Tartan Gift Shop has a chart indicating the place of origin (in
Scotland) of family names, accompanied by a bewildering array of hunt and dress
tartans for men and women, sold by the yard. There's also a line of lamb's wool and
cashmere sweaters and all the accessories. 54 High St. &   0131/558-3187.
Hats
Fabhatrix Not just any hat shop, this place has a variety of modern millinery
wonders and some classic chapeaus, too. There are hundreds of handmade felt hats
and caps, many practical as well as attractive, and some downright frivolous but
extremely fun. Keep your head warm, and your whole body will stay warm. Given
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