Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
Edinburgh and Glasgow have a lot to offer individually, and taken as a duo, they
are more impressive still. Both cities are among Europe's most dynamic centers.
Edinburgh is the seat of Scottish royalty and government, and Glasgow boasts lively
urban culture mixed in with Victorian splendor.
FROMMER'S FAVORITE
EDINBURGH & GLASGOW
EXPERIENCES
W
Visiting a Pub:
In Edinburgh, there are a good number of traditional pubs, many
of which serve hand-pulled, cask-conditioned ales. Glasgow's scene overall is
more modern, with several so-called “style” bars. The preferred Scottish draught
is lager, often combined with a wee dram of whisky by the traditionalists. Whether
you become friendly with the locals or not, pub life is always one of the most
entertaining aspects of a visit to Scotland. I list my favorite pubs in chapters 11
and 19.
W
Experiencing Edinburgh's Famous Festival:
The Edinburgh Festival is one of
Europe's (if not the world's) most prestigious annual cultural events. In fact, it
encompasses several “festivals” at once. The original International Festival
remains primarily devoted to the high arts: Classical music and dance. Meanwhile
the Fringe now dominates the month-long fest, hosting the most acts and drawing
the largest audiences to hundreds of stages with comedians, music, drama, and
other entertainers. Furthermore, a huge international book festival occurs virtu-
ally simultaneously, while smaller jazz and TV festivals compete at the edges. If
you're planning to visit Edinburgh in August, make your hotel reservations early.
See p. 103.
W
Savoring the Cuisine:
The fresh fish and seafood harvested from Scotland's icy
lochs and seas is world-class. Then there is the lamb and Aberdeen Angus beef.
Edinburgh has three restaurants with Michelin stars and Glasgow boasts some of
the best Indian restaurants in the U.K. I review the best dining spots in chapters
7 and 15.
W
Enjoying Art Galleries & Museums:
Edinburgh is home to the National Gal-
leries of Scotland, which contains the country's collection held in five different
buildings. It ranges from Renaissance painting to pop art. Meanwhile, Glasgow
has one of the best municipal holdings of art in Europe. The crowning glory for
many critics is the Burrell Collection (p. 201), a host of art and artifacts
bequeathed to the city by an industrialist, but the Victorian Kelvingrove Art Gal-
lery and Museum (p. 201) has the soul of the city's collection. For the lowdown
on galleries and museums in both cities, see chapters 8 and 16.
W
Playing Golf:
Sure, most people think only of St. Andrews, which frequently
hosts the Open. But both Edinburgh and Glasgow (and the regions nearby) have
fine courses. The birthplace of the sport's rules is Edinburgh, and its historic short
course, Bruntsfield Links (p. 105), can be played during summer for free—and all
you need is a ball, pitching wedge, and putter.
W
Strolling in Parks or Gardens:
In the capital, you have the option of the splen-
did Royal Botanic Gardens, Holyrood Park and Arthur's Seat, the Meadows, or
