Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
dotted over the area with university classrooms have overtaken these premises.
On nearby Drummond Street is one of Robert Louis Stevenson's favorite drink-
ing spots—the Rutherford Bar—and a plaque commemorating his admiration
for it is at the corner. Across Drummond Street there is more literary history—
but of more recent vintage. A cafe once here, one flight up, is reputedly where
J. K. Rowling began writing the
Harry Potter
series. No plaque, yet.
At Drummond Street, South Bridge becomes Nicolson Street. Continue south on it to:
5
Nicolson Square
The impressive neoclassical building you pass on the left (across from the
modern Festival Theatre) before arriving at Nicolson Square is the Surgeons'
Hall, designed by William H. Playfair in the 1830s. Nicolson Square is older,
dating to 1756, and the buildings along its north fringe apparently were the first
to be built. The monument in the square is called the Brassfounders' Column,
designed by James Gowans in 1886.
9
6 Kebab Mahal
Along the north side of the square, Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Sq.;
&
0131/622-5214)
serves up inexpensive but tasty and generous portions of Indian food. Its simple and
unpretentious surroundings draw a real cross-section of Edinburgh: Professors, students,
construction workers, and visitors to the nearby central mosque. See p. 82 for a full
review. Alternatively, you might try the cafe called Elephants & Bagels at the west side of
the square.
Leave the square at the west on Marshall Street, turn left (south) onto Potterrow,
turning right (west) at the parking lot entrance and Crichton Street to:
7
George Square
Almost entirely redeveloped (and arguably ruined) by Edinburgh University in
the 20th century, George Square originally had uniform, if less than startling,
mid-18th-century town houses. It predates the city's New Town developments
north of Old Town, and some of the early buildings are still standing on the
western side of the square. The park provides a quiet daytime retreat. The
square was named after the brother of its designer, James Brown, and not a
king. The writer Walter Scott played in the park as a child.
Exit the square at the southwest corner, turning right (west) into:
8
The Meadows
This sweeping park separates the southern suburbs such as Marchmont, which
were largely developed in the 19th century, from central Edinburgh. The area
once had a loch, but today it is a green expanse criss-crossed by tree-lined paths
(p. 101). At the western end is Bruntsfield Links, which some speculate enter-
tained golfers as far back as the 17th century and still has a short course with
many holes today.
Turn right after a short distance (at the black cycle network marker) onto a wide path
for pedestrians and bicyclists—Meadow Walk—and follow it north to:
9
Teviot Place
The triangle of land formed by Teviot Place, Forrest Road, and Bristo Place is
a hotbed of university life today, with its cafes and bars. To the right (east) is
