Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
as the Grassmarket and ancient routes such as the Cowgate. This walk combines
parts of Old Town with the historic settlements south of the original burgh, an area
now dominated by the University of Edinburgh.
Start the walk at:
1
West Bow
Initially this street zigzagged right up the steep slope from the Grassmarket to
Castlehill. With the 19th-century addition of Victoria Street, however, it is
linked curvaceously and more gently to the Royal Mile via George IV Bridge.
The combination of Victoria Street and West Bow creates a charming and
winding road with unpretentious shops, bars, and restaurants. At the base of
the street is the West Bow well, which was built in 1674. To the west is the
Grassmarket.
But our walk goes southeast from Cowgate. Head up Candlemaker Row to:
2
Greyfriars Church
Not the church you see when ascending Candlemaker Row, but to the right at
the top, Greyfriars Kirk (p. 97) was completed in 1620. Although Greyfriars
was the first post-Reformation church constructed in Edinburgh, by the middle
of the 17th century, it was being used as barracks. In 1718, the original tower
exploded when gunpowder stored in it (a remnant of the 1715 rebellion) was
ignited. The kirkyard has a bit of the infamous Flodden Wall, built after the
Scots' disastrous defeat by England in 1513, and is full of 17th-century monu-
ments and gravestones. Its most celebrated plot, however, contains a 19th-
century policeman whose faithful dog, Bobby, reputedly stood watch for 14
years. Bobby's statue is at the top of Candlemaker Row, just outside the pub
named in his honor.
9
Cross George IV Bridge to Chambers Street and the:
3
Museum of Scotland
Directly in front of you as you leave Greyfriars is the impressive and modern
Museum of Scotland (p. 96). Entered off Chambers Street, it was designed by
architects Benson and Forsyth and constructed mostly with sandstone from the
northeast of Scotland. Opened in 1998, it was purpose-built for permanent
exhibitions that chart the history of Scotland: The land, wildlife, and its people.
Next door is the Royal Museum. Chambers Street is named after a 19th-century
lord provost (the rough equivalent of ceremonial mayor), whose statue stands in
front of the museum's Victorian Great Hall. Further down off Chambers Street,
on what is today Guthrie Street, is where Sir Walter Scott was born.
Continue east on Chambers Street to South Bridge, turn right (south), and at this cor-
ner is the:
4
Old College
The 1781 exteriors of the University of Edinburgh Old College have been
called the best public work by leading Georgian architect Robert Adam. The
university was first established in 1583 by James VI (James I of England), and
this “Old College” actually replaced an earlier one. Today modern buildings
