Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Monuments on Calton Hill
Calton Hill is partially responsible for Edinburgh's nickname--the “Athens of
the North.” Rising 106m (350 ft.), it's a bluff of rock and grass that's home to a host
of monuments. The unfinished colonnade at the summit is the so-called National
Monument, meant to honor the Scottish soldiers killed during the Napoleonic
wars. The money ran out in 1829, and the William H. Playfair-designed structure
(sometimes then referred to as “Edinburgh Disgrace”) was never finished.
The Nelson Monument, containing relics of the hero of Trafalgar, dates from
1815 and rises more than 30m (100 ft.) above the hill. At the top, a large white ball
drops a few yards every day at 1pm (noon GMT) Monday through Saturday; his-
torically it helped sailors in Leith set their timepieces. The monument is open April
to September, Monday from 1 to 6pm and Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to
6pm; and October to March, Monday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm. Admis-
sion is £3.
The old City Observatory along the western summit of Calton Hill was designed
in 1818 by Playfair, whose uncle happened to be the president of the Astronomical
Institute. Nearby, the circular Dougal Stewart's Monument of 1831 (by Playfair,
as well) is not dissimilar to the 1830 Burns Monument designed by Thomas Ham-
ilton on the southern slopes of Calton Hill. It replicates the Choragic Monument of
Lysicrates in Athens, which was also the inspiration for his earlier attempt to honor
the poet in Alloway (p. 257). But visit Calton Hill not only to see these monuments
up close but also to enjoy the panoramic views of the Firth of Forth and the city
spread beneath it.
Down the hill toward Princes Street, in the Old Calton Burial Grounds, is a curi-
osity of special note to those with an interest in North American history. The Eman-
cipation or Lincoln Monument, erected in 1893, is dedicated to soldiers of
Scottish descent who lost their lives in the U.S. Civil War. It has a statue of Presi-
dent Abraham Lincoln with a freed slave at his feet. Some famous Scots are buried
in this cemetery, too, with elaborate tombs honoring their memory (notably the
Robert Adam-designed tomb for philosopher David Hume).
Dean Village
Dean Village is a former grain-milling settlement that goes back to the 12th century.
Its picturesque buildings nestle in a valley about 30m (100 ft.) deep along the Water
of Leith. Originally called the Water of Leith Village, its principal landmark is
nearby: The soaring arches of Dean Bridge
8
(1833), designed by the incredibly
talented engineer Thomas Telford.
The village has been restored, the historic buildings (dating mainly from the 17th
to 19th century) converted into private residences. Look particularly at the stone-
work on the yellow-washed facade of the building at the foot of Bell's Brae, with its
17th-century panel of cherubs and milling imagery, as well as the well-worn inscrip-
tion blessing the “Baxters” (bakers) of Edinburgh. But don't come here for any one
particular site. Stroll around and enjoy the ambience, which feels a hundred miles
away from bustling Princes Street or the Royal Mile. From Dean Village you can also
walk for kilometers along the Water of Leith, one of the most tranquil strolls in the
greater Edinburgh area.
 
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