Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
When ordering a nargile, you'll need to specify what type of tobacco you would like. Most people
opt for
elma
(when the tobacco has been soaked in apple juice, giving it a sweet flavour and scent),
but it's possible to order it unadulterated (
tömbeki
). A nargile usually costs between 15 and 25
and can be shared (you'll be given individual plastic mouthpieces).
ALCOHOLIC DRINKS
Turkey's most beloved tipple is rakı, a grape spirit infused with aniseed. Similar to Greek
ouzo, it's served in long thin glasses and is drunk neat or with water, which turns the clear
liquid chalky white; if you want to add ice (
buz
), do so after adding water, as dropping
ice straight into rakı kills its flavour.
Bira
(beer) is also popular. The local drop, Efes, is a perky pilsener that comes in
bottles, in cans and on tap.
Turkey grows and bottles its own
şarap
(wine), which has greatly improved over the
past decade but is quite expensive due to high government taxes. If you want red wine,
ask for
kırmızı şarap
; for white ask for
beyaz şarap
. Labels to look out for include
Sarafin (chardonnay, fumé blanc, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and mer-
lot); Karma (cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and merlot); Kav Tuğra (narince,
kalecik karası
and
öküzgözü
); and DLC (most grape varieties). All are produced by
Doluca
the wines it puts out under the Pendore, Ancyra and Prestige labels (the Pendore
boğazkere
is particularly good), as well as its eminently quaffable Çankaya white blend.
Together, Doluca and Kavaklidere dominate the market, but producers such as
Vinkara
themselves with wines such as Kayra's excellent Buzbağ.
Time Out
magazine and the
Clubbing
The best nightclubs are in Beyoğlu and along the 'Golden Mile' between Ortaköy and
Kuruçeşme on the Bosphorus.
The city's bohemian and student sets tend to gravitate to the bar and clubs in Beyoğlu's
Cihangir, Asmalımescit and Nevizade enclaves or head over the water to grungy Kadife
Sokak in the suburb of Kadıköy on the city's Asian side. This is known to everyone as
Barlar Sokak (Bar Street).
