Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Past the bridge on the Asian side is
Kanlıca
, the ferry's next stop. This charming vil-
lage is famous for the rich and delicious yoghurt produced here, which is sold on the ferry
and in two cafes on the shady waterfront square. The small
Gâzi İskender Paşa Mosque
OFFLINE MAP
in the square dates from 1560 and was designed by Mimar Sinan.
veau villa built by the last khedive of Egypt as a summer residence for use during his fam-
ily's annual visits to İstanbul. You can see its square white tower (often flying a Turkish
flag) from the ferry.
Kanlıca to Sarıyer
On the opposite shore is the wealthy suburb of
Emirgan
, home to the impressive
Sakıp
tp://muze.sabanciuniv.edu
;
Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42; exhibition admission varies; 10am-6pm Tue,
Thu, Fri & Sun, to 10pm Wed & Sat; Emirgan)
, which hosts international travelling art exhib-
itions. Inside the museum grounds is one of İstanbul's most stylish eateries,
MüzedeChanga, with an extensive terrace and magnificent Bosphorus views.
On the hill above Emirgan is
Emirgan Woods
, a huge public reserve that is particu-
larly beautiful in April, when it is carpeted with thousands of tulips.
North of Emirgan, there's a ferry dock near the small yacht-lined cove of
İstinye
.
Nearby, on a point jutting out from the European shore, is the suburb of
Yeniköy
. This
was a favourite summer resort for the Ottomans, as indicated by the cluster of lavish 18th-
and 19th-century
yalıs
around the ferry dock. The most notable of these is the frilly white
Palas Hotel in Beyoğlu, and built in the late 19th century.
On the opposite shore is the village of
Paşabahçe
, famous for its glassware factory. A
bit further on is the fishing village of
Beykoz
, which has a graceful ablutions fountain,
the
İshak Ağa Çeşmesi
, dating from 1746, near the village square. Much of the land
along the Bosphorus shore north of
Beykoz
is a military zone.
Originally called Therapia for its healthy climate, the little cove of
Tarabya
on the
European shore has been a favourite summer watering place for İstanbul's well-to-do for
centuries, though modern developments such as the horrendous multistorey Grand Hotel
Tarabya right on the promontory have poisoned much of its charm. For an account of
Therapia in its heyday, read Harold Nicolson's 1921 novel
Sweet Waters
. Nicolson, who
is best known as Vita Sackville-West's husband, served as the third secretary in the British
embassy in Constantinople between 1912 and 1914, the years of the Balkan wars, and