Istanbul’s Top Sights - Istanbul - page 236

EATING
A recent local-government ban on outdoor drinking in Beyoğlu has had a sorry impact on this neigh-
bourhood's restaurant and bar scene, sending some venues with streetside seating broke and causing
the interior dining spaces of others to become unpleasantly crowded. We, like many locals, can only
hope that good sense prevails and that the ban is rescinded in the near future. The only enclave to es-
cape the ban was Nevizade Sokak behind the Balık Pazarı, which continues to host boisterous crowds
on weekend evenings. The food in the restaurants here is adequate rather than memorable, but the at-
mosphere is always fun.
İSTANBUL'S FOOD CULTURE
Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer produce Culinary Backstreets
( www.culinarybackstreets.com ) , an excellent blog that investigates the traditional food culture
of the city. Here, they recommend some of their favourite shopping, eating and drinking destinations:
Favourite Produce Market in İstanbul
The Kastamonu market held in Piyalepaşa Bulvarı in Kasimpaşa early on Sunday mornings.
Favourite Produce Shops
» Online shopping at İpek Hanım Çiftliği ( www.ipekhanim.com ; İpek Hanım's Farm).
» Titiz Manav (Titez Greengrocer) in Beyoglu's Balık Pazarı ( CLICK HERE ).
Best Foodie Strip
The side streets of the Kadıköy Produce Market.
Most Exciting Food Trend
Chefs focusing on local, traditional cuisine rather than the latest international fad.
Worst Food Trend
Local fast-food chains. On the one hand, it's better to see a cığ köfte (raw spiced meatball) chain than
another McDonald's, but these local fast-food chains threaten the livelihood of ustas (real craftsmen).