Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
mosque complex that he commissioned became the place where the Ottoman princes
came for the Turkish equivalent of a coronation ceremony: girding the Sword of Osman to
signify their power and their title as
padişah
(king of kings), or sultan. In 1766 Mehmet's
building was levelled by an earthquake; a new mosque was built on the site by Sultan Se-
lim III in 1800.
If you arrive by ferry, cross the road from the ferry stop and walk up İskele Caddesi,
until you reach the mosque complex. From the plaza outside the complex, enter the great
doorway to a courtyard shaded by a huge plane tree; the mosque is to your right and the
tomb, rich with silver, gold and crystal chandeliers and coloured İznik tiles, is to your left.
Even though women pray in a separate room to the right of the mosque, females can usu-
ally enter the mosque itself and stand at the rear if they are properly covered.
Be careful to observe the Islamic proprieties when visiting, as this is an extremely sac-
red place for Muslims, ranking fourth after the big three: Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem.
It's always busy on Fridays and religious holidays.
During your visit you may see boys dressed up in white suits with spangled caps and
red satin sashes emblazoned with the word 'Maşallah'. These lads are on the way to their
circumcision and have made a stop beforehand at this holy place.
MAŞALLAH!
If you visit Eyüp on a Friday, Sunday or holy day, you will see young boys in white suits being car-
ried by their proud fathers and followed by a circle of relatives. These apprehensive yet excited
young chaps are about to undergo one of the most important Muslim rites -
sünnet
(circumcision).
Their white suit is supplemented with a spangled hat and red satin sash emblazoned with the word
Maşallah
(May God Protect Him).
Circumcision is performed on a Turkish Muslim boy when he is between five and 11 years old
(odd-numbered years are thought to be luckier), and marks his formal admission into the faith.
On the day of the operation the boy is dressed in the special suit, visits relatives and friends, and
leads a parade - formerly on horseback, now in cars - around his neighbourhood or city, attended by
musicians and merrymakers.
