Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
near the Grand Bazaar. We do so for two reasons: it has a convenient location and it is one
of the few eateries in this area where patrons can enjoy wine or beer with their meal.
Opened in 2012, the restaurant-
lokanta
is a project of Vedat Başaran, the energy behind
the admirable NAR Gourmet, an organisation that describes itself as being 'devoted to the
principle of natural eating inspired by Turkey's diverse provincial food cultures'. Unfortu-
nately we have found that the pricey food on offer here ranges from adequate to inedible.
If you decide to give it a go, come at lunch and make your choice from the bain-marie at
the rear of the restaurant - don't order from the menu unless you decide to limit yourself
to mezes or pide.
The dining space itself has large, well-spaced tables but lacks character. Service is at-
tentive, but this doesn't adequately compensate for the disappointing food and the fact that
the wine list is outrageously overpriced (glass of wine 26).
FISH SANDWICHES
The city's favourite fast-food treat is undoubtedly the
balık ekmek
(fish sandwich), and the most at-
mospheric place to try one of these is at the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge. Here, in front of fish-
ing boats tied to the quay, are a number of stands where mackerel fillets are grilled, crammed into
fresh bread and served with salad; a generous squeeze of bottled lemon is optional but recommen-
ded. A sandwich will set you back a mere 5 or so, and is delicious accompanied by a glass of the
şalgam
(sour turnip juice) sold by nearby pickle vendors.
There are plenty of other places around town to try a
balık ekmek
- head to any
iskele
(ferry dock)
and there's bound to be a stand nearby. Alternatively,
Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı
, a tiny place op-
posite the Galata Tower, serves an excellent version for 7.
