Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
One slight caveat: staff work hard and are clearly encouraged to turn tables over as fast
as possible. Don't expect much in terms of personal service, and be prepared for little time
between courses.
The restaurant is accessed via elevators in the ground-floor baklava shop.
| TURKISH
SİİRT FATİH BÜRYAN $
(İtfaiye Caddesi 20a, Zeyrek; büryan 11, perde pilavi 10; Aksaray) Those who enjoy investig-
ating regional cuisines should head to this eatery in the Kadın Pazarı near the Aqueduct of
Valens. It specialises in two dishes that are a specialty of the southeastern city of Siirt:
büryan (lamb slow-cooked in a pit) and perde pilavi (chicken and rice cooked in pastry).
Both are totally delicious.
The büryan here is meltingly tender and is served on flat bread with crispy bits of lamb
fat and a dusting of salt. Perde pilavi is made with rice, chicken, almonds and currants
that are encased in a thin pastry shell and then baked until the exterior turns golden and
flaky. Order either with a glass of frothy homemade ayran (salty yoghurt drink) and you'll
be happy indeed. No alcohol.
SUR OCAKBAŞI $$
( 212-533 8088; www.surocakbasi.com ; İtfaiye Caddesi 27; kebaps 11-20; Aksaray) Indulge
in some peerless people-watching while enjoying the grilled meats at this popular place in
the Kadın Pazarı. The square is always full of locals shopping or enjoying a gossip, and
tourists were a rare sight before Anthony Bourdain filmed a segment of No Reservations
here and blew Sur's cover.
| KEBAP
There are plenty of options on offer: consider the mixed kebap plate, the içli köfte
(deep-fried lamb and onion meatballs with a bulgur coating) and the çiğ köfte (meat poun-
ded with spices and eaten raw). No alcohol, but there's homemade ayran .
BAHAR RESTAURANT $
OFFLINE MAP
| TURKISH
(Yağcı Han 13, off Nuruosmaniye Sokak, Nuruosmaniye; soup 4, dishes 9-15; 11am-4pm Mon-Sat;
; Çemberlitaş) Our favourite eatery in the Grand Bazaar precinct, tiny Bahar (Spring)
is popular with local shopkeepers and is always full, so arrive early to score a table.
Dishes change daily and with the season - try the delicious lentil soup, tasty hünkar
beğendi (lamb and aubergine stew) or creamy macaroni. The latter is made only once per
week. No alcohol.
ONUR ET LOKANTASI $
| TURKISH, KEBAP
 
 
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